tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-47490324232944581882024-03-14T05:02:11.609-07:00Middle-aged MeanderingsGallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.comBlogger73125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-64126410013720194632011-12-13T13:26:00.000-08:002011-12-13T13:26:13.638-08:00The Bus PassGreat News! I'm not actually old enough for a bus pass after all. I'm not sure if I should be pleased about this news or somewhat miffed.<br />
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After a rather cold and windy walk round Brayford Pool to City Hall this afternoon, I was rather surprised to be ushered straight in to see a consultant in Customer Services. I handed over my completed bus pass application form, my passport to prove my age and a Council Tax bill to prove my address. I thought it was all too easy!<br />
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It seems that since April 2011, the age you need to be to get a bus pass has increased in line with decision to change the starting age for womens pensions, quite how the two are linked, I'm not sure. Seems that I have to wait until I am 61 years 7 months and 8 days old before I qualify.<br />
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Methinks its time to get my bicycle serviced.......<br />
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<br />Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-59960142200327563042011-12-12T14:58:00.000-08:002011-12-12T14:58:15.189-08:00Lincoln12 December 2011<br />
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Hey-ho, back in Lincoln again after a 4 week sojourn to South America. There is a mound of dirty laundry now, so the washing-machine is going to earning its keep this week! The bags are back in the attic and the pictures down-loaded from the camera onto the computer. Now all we have to do is start planning the next adventure!<br />
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The weather is distinctly cool and damp, so walking into town didn't appeal to me this afternoon. Having got on the bus and payed for a return fare, I suddenly remembered that I no longer needed to pay - I'm off down to City-Hall tomorrow to acquire my much joked about bus pass! I down-loaded a form entitled, 'Elderly Person' and realised that it referred to me. Clearly, in Lincolnshire, being aged 60 is officially to be elderly. On one hand, I'm not an OAP as a state pension is still some five years in the future, however, in terms of transport, I qualify as a doddery old git. I'm just looking forward to 'young people' giving up their seats on the bus for me.<br />
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The best thing today was a visit to the dentist which lasted approximately 30 seconds. The dentist and I parted amiably, me with cheque-book still in pocket and the dentist with an unexpected 15 minute coffee-break!<br />
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Having composed a considerable travel journal over the past weeks, of questionable quality, is it satisfying to see that several people have read my scribblings. I don't feel that I am ever going to challenge the Bill Brysons of this world, but I have enjoyed recording our travels. If you have any constructive comments to help me improve my efforts, I'd be very happy to receive them.<br />
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<br />Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-34044590947670126322011-12-09T09:07:00.001-08:002011-12-09T09:08:47.000-08:00London - Bristol09 December 2011<br /><br /><br />We woke up at 9.45 - what a great nights sleep! Shortly afterwards, we were heading west down the M4 for Bristol. Traffic was fairly light, so it didn't take long.<br /><br />Back in Bristol, we found a small white dog sound asleep! He didn't stay asleep for long though. I think he was pleased to see us!<br /><br />We had a great holiday in South America and would love to go back to see some more of the continent. We thoroughly enjoyed what we had seen of Ecuador, but our highlights were probably the jungle and cloudforest despite the fact that we were expecting the Galapagos to be the best.<br /><br />In the Galapagos, we saw just about every bird that you can, with the exception of the Flightless Cormorant (which is only seen on one island that we didn't visit), we saw just about every mammal and amphibian and reptile that inhabits the islands so there were no suprise sightings. This was contrasted in the Jungle and Cloudforest where you never knew what you were going to see each day.<br /><br />Nonetheless, it was a wonderful experience and now we are back, Christmas is looming, so no time for rest!Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-3827744032922628262011-12-09T08:58:00.001-08:002011-12-09T09:01:46.197-08:00Quito - Amsterdam - London08 December 2011<br /><br /><br />Unsuprisingly, I managed to sleep quite well on the flight, whilst Lynn didn't! I woke up about 2 hours before we were due to land feeling fairly refreshed.<br /><br />The weather over UK and at Amsterdam was very overcast so we didn't see much until we were about to touch down. After a very long taxi, the aircraft arrived at the terminal and we all got off. The airport was decorated for Christmas and very busy. We managed to get some Euros and went to get a coffee.<br /><br />Our next flight to London was due to leave 1 hour and 45 minutes later, so we didn't have long to hang around. We were taken to the aircraft on a bus, and once out of the bus could feel how windy it was. Once on the flight, the captain informed us that there were delays at Heathrow and we would have to sit in the aircraft at Schipol for 30 minutes. Some passengers were clearly unhappy with this news!<br /><br />Finally, we took off and headed out across the North Sea to London. Once in the London area, the captain came back on the intercom and said that we would have to circle for about 30 minutes before we could land. It was a shame the cloud was so low as we were over the city by then. Apparently, when the weather is poor at Heathrow, including very windy, the number of flights that can land every minute is decreased. Usually, a flight lands every 20 seconds, but today it was every 40 seconds.<br /><br />Once we had landed we were quickly off the aircraft and went to immigration and baggage collection. At immigration, we were able to use the new automatic machines and then went off to collect our baggage. One of the bags was damaged, so we stopped to report it the airline representative. Hopefully, we will get a replacement bag later.<br /><br />We grabbed a taxi from the airport to the hotel, and despite the heavy traffic, the cabbie managed to get us there quite quickly. We checked in and then I went to find the car, but it had been moved whilst we had been away! With the help of the staff, I found the car and loaded one of our bags into it.<br /><br />We both had a shower and freshed up, what a great feeling! After our long flight, my teeth felt as if they were furry too - urgh! After over three weeks of not being able to use tapwater to clean our teeth, it was a great to be able to do so in UK. A beer and a small meal later saw us heading for bed after a very long day/night.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-70558814107655195502011-12-09T08:55:00.001-08:002011-12-09T08:58:08.855-08:00Quito - Amsterdam07 Dec 2011<br /><br />Fantastic news, Lynn is feeling considerably better than yesterday, so, following breakfast, the first job was to pack our bags for home.were getting good at packing now, so it didn't take long to fill all three bags. That done, we decided to take a taxi up to the Mariscal area of the city. The Mariscal, the shopping centre of the newer part of the city, straddles a road called Amazonas and is full of small shops and an artisan market. It took the taxi driver some while to get us there, but the fare was still less than $2!<br /><br />We wandered around the shops and then the artisan market before stopping for a coffee. The coffee in Ecuador is very good, which is hardly suprising as it is grown and processed in the country. A good cup will set you back about a dollar. Chocolate, another Ecuadorian export, is also very, very good!<br /><br />We were back in the taxi to the hotel by 12.00 and I then popped out for some cash, last minute shopping and lunch from Subway!<br /><br />We checked out sometime after 2.00 and sat in the hotel lobby and waited for our transport to the airport. It was somewhat delayed as traffic was particularly heavy.<br /><br />Quito airport was a revelation today as we were at International departures! This was an area of calm compared with our previous encounters at the Domestic part of the airport and we quickly checked in and made our way through security. There were lots of shops to browse, but all very really very expensive.<br /><br />Our aircraft arrived from Amsterdam on time and we boarded quite quickly onto a half empty aircraft. Soon we were leaving Quito and heading in the opposite direct to Amsterdam to the Pacific coast city of Guayaquil. Here the remaining passengers left the flight whilst we remained on board.<br /><br />An army of cleaners then descended on the aircraft and started tidying up from the flight from Amsterdam. Meanwhile, the aircraft was refuelled for the flight home. With the aircraft doors all open, it was easy to feel how warm it was, 85 degrees at 6.00 in the evening!<br /><br />The aircraft left on time, at around 8.00 in the evening local time, and we started heading back towards Amsterdam. Our route was to take us up the Ecuadorian Coast, then across Columbia and Venezuela, over the Dutch Antilles and out in the Atlantic Ocean. Later it would next cross land in West Wales, overfly London and finally descend into Amsterdam with a flight time of 10 hours 45 minutes.<br /><br />The flight was fairly empty, so we occupied two rows of seats at the back of the aircraft, in order to be able to stretch out overnight!Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-9846685828004193442011-12-09T08:53:00.001-08:002011-12-09T08:54:43.754-08:00Quito06 December 2011<br /><br />Quitos Birthday today - public holiday<br /><br />Well after three weeks of being fit and healthy, Lynn woke up feeling very grotty this morning, grotty enough to stay in bed. I felt fine and went down to a solitary breakfast. The city is very quiet this morning, presumably sleeping off the partying from last night. It is also a Public Holiday to celebrate 'Navidad de Quito'.<br /><br />Back in the room, Lynn tried to sleep in order to feel better, the healing process wasn't helped by the music from Carolina Park which appeared to start at 11.00 with some 'Heavy Metal' bands screeching at full volume.<br /><br />By lunchtime, it was clear that Lynn still wasn't feeling any better, although her temperature had gone down a little, so we asked the hotel for a doctor. When I enquired about charges, so I could go to the cash machine, the hotel informed me it was free, all part of the hotel service. How good is that?<br /><br />A female doctor eventually appeared and prescribed a couple of drugs and also gave a free injection to ease the fever. Hotel staff then offered to go to the pharmacy, but when they said that they were going just across the street, I went myself. Despite the Public Holiday, the chemist was open and fearing the worse financially, I got the presciption. Much to my suprise, the bill only came to $7 - I think I'm living in the wrong country! Cheap prescriptions, fuel at $1 a gallon, this is the place to be!<br /><br />I managed to catch up with the backlog of blogging that had built up. The backlog had built up because there was no internet access in the jungle, none on the boat and none in the cloudforest, which accounted for 11 days.<br /><br />Lynn continued to rest, but managed to eat a ham sandwich from Subway for lunch.<br /><br />Later in the evening, I walked to TGI Friday for dinner by myself as it was the closest and easiest option.<br /><br />At around 9.00 in the evening, there was a tremendous firework display in Carolina Park, and although we couldn't see the display, we could certainly hear it. We caught glimpses of it reflected in the windows of the building behind the hotel, and the echoes made it very noisy.<br /><br />Fingers crossed, Lynn is showing signs of improvement, so hopefully after a good nights sleep, she will be fit enough for the long flight home tomorrow.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-51804203606828786072011-12-06T10:01:00.001-08:002011-12-06T10:21:20.400-08:00Bellavista Cloud Forest - Quito05 Dec 2011<br /><br /><br />After a very peaceful nights sleep, I was up just before 6.00 just as it was getting light.We had arranged for an early morning bird walk and everyone was ready by 6.15. We didn't get far initially, just the car park where we found several Masked Trogon and Toucan Barbet.<br /><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoYYsr410NSUpR1Cxxlz8CxMKTg9_iqW3NMLKD09BtesaMZ1Da1jx_xN3ODNkeK8PXvc4umJ4AEc01AsVDFDz_R7mlRprsSiiBdzlFvSNPNxVIA3-0ERpai_NHGKMjZdnU_QzojuOlX5I/s1600/PICT0379.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoYYsr410NSUpR1Cxxlz8CxMKTg9_iqW3NMLKD09BtesaMZ1Da1jx_xN3ODNkeK8PXvc4umJ4AEc01AsVDFDz_R7mlRprsSiiBdzlFvSNPNxVIA3-0ERpai_NHGKMjZdnU_QzojuOlX5I/s320/PICT0379.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View at dawn from our room at Bellavista Lodge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Walking around the grounds of the lodge, we also saw two types of Woodcreepers, Cinnamon Flycatchers, Blue-winged Mountain Tanagers and White-sided Flowerpiercers. We also briefly climbed up a track to a viewpoint which turned out to be the lodge campsite! The view over the mountains was outstanding.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvbcv0ZfOXSzFnHrvWt00TumKSHrj4EmtG86dcBdT8c8Yt09dy8tUpJyFs_V5Jn928eNun_5nmyTkQM1xKMVa8GbWtjWqEJUPbivdKZENEmwakHRNO6fSf3ZBzJADloK9wLjP62lE00ts/s1600/PICT0383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvbcv0ZfOXSzFnHrvWt00TumKSHrj4EmtG86dcBdT8c8Yt09dy8tUpJyFs_V5Jn928eNun_5nmyTkQM1xKMVa8GbWtjWqEJUPbivdKZENEmwakHRNO6fSf3ZBzJADloK9wLjP62lE00ts/s320/PICT0383.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rather blurry Masked Trogon</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back at the lodge, it was time for a shower and breakfast.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUYDZdzX46yBnD3opAgqK4vaRsvAGhNsVJ-Bn3Getn7re0QntS6hzjIpr1Ix1jtpuhgu16n_6Q2ISpuEoXLaAglN_P635JmRE1qZ-eLvsfiIWGlDi-BZxSvbMh38dvtJaNNOwHWUlB_hk/s1600/PICT0388.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUYDZdzX46yBnD3opAgqK4vaRsvAGhNsVJ-Bn3Getn7re0QntS6hzjIpr1Ix1jtpuhgu16n_6Q2ISpuEoXLaAglN_P635JmRE1qZ-eLvsfiIWGlDi-BZxSvbMh38dvtJaNNOwHWUlB_hk/s320/PICT0388.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very handsome Toucan Barbet</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After breakfast, Lynn and I walked up the road for a while. We didn't see any birds, but did photograph several very pretty butterflies and some flowers. At the lodge, there are lots of hummingbird feeders, so there is a constant flow of these beautiful birds coming in to feed. The smallest, a bee hummingbird, never even lands at the feeder.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnCNB_JrqXxiGF8jEF-SdKRptJcsVqZxjUbSUUIknd_a_Ac9h3nGkF5htYdxYZWvGUR1ehYYP5qlj1Y7TgWr5gdSnZzj9A1lsDi1eNaixRub-Y6_F0mOIrLiCRyJVjAuNfxRE9W1Uiki0/s1600/PICT0407.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnCNB_JrqXxiGF8jEF-SdKRptJcsVqZxjUbSUUIknd_a_Ac9h3nGkF5htYdxYZWvGUR1ehYYP5qlj1Y7TgWr5gdSnZzj9A1lsDi1eNaixRub-Y6_F0mOIrLiCRyJVjAuNfxRE9W1Uiki0/s320/PICT0407.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bee Hummingbird</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We then went back to the lodge where Lynn set up tripod and camera in our room with the windows wide open, whilst I went for a more adventurous walk by myself. I walked about 2 kilometres up the road, and then turned off onto a track. I followed the most obvious track which took me onto the top of a ridge in a grassy sort of field where cows had clearly been grazing recently. The views from here were magnificent.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixE4TpWjBmAigwjHMToQiZPkhIUaiTaWLcIutpGf_gR59Uq783XrTf8lD6VuOMoUsk-kSf-7UpkPihicV9xKdhJUr6r8uHcG1AkskD6rmoFp_7_MCPPPPYSHG0kaOvTAC6P2PLT97Qu_s/s1600/PICT0398.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixE4TpWjBmAigwjHMToQiZPkhIUaiTaWLcIutpGf_gR59Uq783XrTf8lD6VuOMoUsk-kSf-7UpkPihicV9xKdhJUr6r8uHcG1AkskD6rmoFp_7_MCPPPPYSHG0kaOvTAC6P2PLT97Qu_s/s320/PICT0398.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the top of the mountain</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After a while, I found a new signpost which showed that I was on the wrong path, so I had to backtrack all the way back to the road. After hunting around, I found the 'Yumbo' trail and headed into deep primary rainforest. There were lots of birds around, but mostly very difficult to see. After about 20 minutes, I branched off down another path heading toward a waterfall. The path was marked as difficult and was steep, slippery and all downhill. Toward the bottom of the path rope handrails had been installed as the path was near vertical. Finally, at the bottom, I found a beautiful waterfall and took the chance to splash some icy-cold water on my face as I was somewhat warm and sweaty.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXXrRu7gsxnKlUeWdfJ4-YImU4CF87SQlFxZu_tAW-vbtex_U7TkZjdaanD6tbXkH3GS9CSb2ZXkcMWOOIGQGA7fjqCymOd_yQAwlTdEv5hNl-_rsSnFvK1WcLNZMnvY2OD9c_B_VRIw/s1600/PICT0409.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKXXrRu7gsxnKlUeWdfJ4-YImU4CF87SQlFxZu_tAW-vbtex_U7TkZjdaanD6tbXkH3GS9CSb2ZXkcMWOOIGQGA7fjqCymOd_yQAwlTdEv5hNl-_rsSnFvK1WcLNZMnvY2OD9c_B_VRIw/s320/PICT0409.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cloudforest waterfall</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After a few photos, I set up back up the path. I hauled myself up the ropes and then started uphill. Even though the altitude was a bit less than Quito, it was still hard on the lungs. Rounding one steep corner, I came face-to-face with a Chesnut-crowned Antpitta, it quickly scuttled off into the undergrowth. As the path was so poor, I had but my camera away - shame! Shortly afterwards, I was very pleased to see the road as I knew it was an easy 2 kilometres downhill from there.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiniWU7dKsef2_icj9iK7rEL2fSgO6TdnygwFfxn4uLIaa61-sGaJR-uI6IwWRIsmVCiwbcXsh2IrEe3mcSNb85jlKftNkaPRIfUwovJ5uqg4fgbJk8oy-H8xA2V9NqZxgK9asCJmEOPyI/s1600/PICT0429.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiniWU7dKsef2_icj9iK7rEL2fSgO6TdnygwFfxn4uLIaa61-sGaJR-uI6IwWRIsmVCiwbcXsh2IrEe3mcSNb85jlKftNkaPRIfUwovJ5uqg4fgbJk8oy-H8xA2V9NqZxgK9asCJmEOPyI/s320/PICT0429.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-winged Mountain Tanager</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After lunch at the lodge, we packed again and got ready to leave. Our small party of 'Brits' had managed to persuade the drivers that we wanted to travel together so that we could consign the noisy Americans to a different minibus!<br /><br />The journey back down the mountain dirt track wasn't too unpleasant and we eventually reached the main road again and started wind back uphill. We encountered some major roadworks at one stage and sat outide a very basic restaurant for about 15 minutes. I couldn't (and probably wouldn't want to) tell you what was being cooked up right in front of us. Certainly the cut of meat was unidentifiable, suffice it say that it was probably pork.<br /><br />Back in Quito it was rush hour and fiesta was still ongoing, so traffic was a nightmare. We finally got back to the hotel after 5.00.<br /><br />Neither of us was feeling particularly hungry, so we went to the nearby Japanese restaurant again. The noise from the music in Carolina Park was spectacular again. We also saw several more 'party buses'cruising around.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-18153421846478020492011-12-06T08:56:00.001-08:002011-12-06T09:14:45.284-08:00Quito - Bellavista Cloud Forest04 Dec 2011<br /><br /><br />We were up well before 6.00 and were at breakfast shortly afterwards. We abandoned two of our bags at the hotel and slightly early, our transport arrived to take us to Bellavista Cloud Forest Lodge.<br /><br />There were already two German ladies on the minibus and the driver said we had to pick up four more passengers. We drove out of the city centre into a residential area where the driver had great difficulty finding the correct address for the pick-up. Eventually, we found it and two Americans climbed into the minibus, one of whom then directed the driver to another address, where we waited for another American women to get in. From here, were went to yet another address for a fourth American. By now we had been in the bus for close to an hour and were running late.<br /><br />As we headed north out of Quito one of the American women starting talking, loudly - she never stopped! We discovered in the space of the next 2 hours her entire life story, her family relations, every job she had ever done, boyfriends she'd had. She didn't like Quito, where she was teaching English and the air was too thin for her. She was so pleased we were descending so she could get more oxygen! I wanted to suggest that if she shut her mouth and stopped talking she might get more oxygen (and give us some peace).<br />
<br />North of the City, we crossed the Equator yet again, this time into the Northern Hemisphere. The Ecuadorians have built a sort of theme park on the Equator called 'La Mitad del Mundo' or 'The Middle of the World'. There is a large monument here to celebrate lattitude 00 degrees. I believe that in fact it has been found to be 7 seconds of a degree to the south of the line, about 240 metres away, but who cares!<br /><br />From here our route took us over a low pass and then followed a very deep valley down through the foothills of the Andes. Eventually, after about 90 kilometres, we reached a dirt road turn off and started heading back up hill to the lodge. The road climbed for 14 kilometres on an unsurfaced road high up into the hills. About 30 minutes later we reached the lodge.<br /><br />The lodge was built by an Englishman and his partner about 20 years ago on the site of an old cattle and horse farm. The vegetation is starting take over again which surrounds the hotch-potch of buildings all built from local woods. We were accommodated up a very narrow circular staircase in the Mirador Suite. The room had a lounge with a couple of sofas and large sliding windows, a small kitchenette, and bedroom with large sliding windows and a shower room. There were no curtains and there was nobody to overlook us!<br />
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All the rooms are different at the lodge, some in the main building, some in two houses a 100 metres away and some about the restaurant.<br /><br />We had a second breakfast, and decided that whatever the Americans were doing, we would go in opposite directions as we were so fed up their constant gabbling - we'd never see any birds with them around.<br /><br />Two guides offered to different walks in the cloud forest, the Americans elected to go to their rooms and the rest of us, some we had been on the Galapagos Voyager with, split into two small groups and set off into the forest. Lynn stayed at the lodge to do some static bird-watching and photography.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA__zyPRaDvPYhX8ZxcfqpSVLoPKwK3U_Vnkbw3F3AgZs9SZcnHkawNN2hknv4Jo4wK1uUmpCzeAED2_yXg0X424TDr5PNjZ3OrPvQGRoogquzI9TU6HCPpllqKGFHiAu036SPoyUgb2E/s1600/PICT0346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhA__zyPRaDvPYhX8ZxcfqpSVLoPKwK3U_Vnkbw3F3AgZs9SZcnHkawNN2hknv4Jo4wK1uUmpCzeAED2_yXg0X424TDr5PNjZ3OrPvQGRoogquzI9TU6HCPpllqKGFHiAu036SPoyUgb2E/s320/PICT0346.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tutu flower - much loved by hummingbirds</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />All the trails were very narrow, some quite steep and many very slippery. The cloud forest is very different to the Amazon basin forest as the trees are lower and more light reaches the forest floor, thus there is more vegetation. It felt very 'jungly'.<br />
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We were lucky and saw Toucans, fly-catchers, warblers and best of all Masked Trogon, a very bright red bird. After a couple of hours we returned to the lodge for break and lunch.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjLuM7rrrXcPl44l2iKKx_xE6wRwp4UFjCrW4U9h7ZkAkcYQjcy2qM1ferNPw25C152F0dRJWit_ZICrCSeTRRdBa-qd9IxlyVA962KXCPWCdluo1lAza9RCws-JIKdMNA6bCcSYXx1E/s1600/PICT0356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijjLuM7rrrXcPl44l2iKKx_xE6wRwp4UFjCrW4U9h7ZkAkcYQjcy2qM1ferNPw25C152F0dRJWit_ZICrCSeTRRdBa-qd9IxlyVA962KXCPWCdluo1lAza9RCws-JIKdMNA6bCcSYXx1E/s320/PICT0356.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rather distant view of a Plate-billed Mountain Toucan</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />The restaurant was built as a geodesic dome with the dining room and bar on the ground floor, 3 guest rooms up a spiral bamboo staircase on the first floor, a further 6 beds on the second floor reached by a ladder and three further beds even further up the ladder at the top of the building!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8NflRh7rY6GiJ2WU8R82ilkwFnfhsxJK_PlJpCr0hPgvJvQXnVZXCcmCESgvUG219QBbnxpSlrBz5E9djeqKIuiqx9Yb0fhejfKDsjCn0Kqj-WijXeUmMCzEwV81Bs2buAkmL-LrNqh4/s1600/PICT0363.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8NflRh7rY6GiJ2WU8R82ilkwFnfhsxJK_PlJpCr0hPgvJvQXnVZXCcmCESgvUG219QBbnxpSlrBz5E9djeqKIuiqx9Yb0fhejfKDsjCn0Kqj-WijXeUmMCzEwV81Bs2buAkmL-LrNqh4/s320/PICT0363.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Hummingbird</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After lunch, some of our group from the Galapagos, were returning to Quito after their brief day visit to the lodge so we said goodbye to them before our small group headed down the road for another walk. we walked about a kilometre down the dirt road and then climbed back up 500 metres on a very steep, narrow track to the lodge. At first, the bird life was almost non-existant, but towards the end of the walk we saw lots, including Woodcreepers and Woodpeckers.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXf6aOdI1MhB2yCtJRiXJ5v_4lc1-pVmgyHtQPtLOCm7MMjrbn0u5hOYXmL_V3Hy1BPXXCpfoxmKDFlrrTJCRI4FD3n4sHe5ih4W4BhunvIWGQgJnPu6LfbrqOb1Y6yQVizRkEUY076Lw/s1600/PICT0377.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXf6aOdI1MhB2yCtJRiXJ5v_4lc1-pVmgyHtQPtLOCm7MMjrbn0u5hOYXmL_V3Hy1BPXXCpfoxmKDFlrrTJCRI4FD3n4sHe5ih4W4BhunvIWGQgJnPu6LfbrqOb1Y6yQVizRkEUY076Lw/s320/PICT0377.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Booted Racket-tail - a very small hummingbird</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back at the lodge, we sat outside and watched the Hummingbirds on the feeders. There were at least 14 different species, some so small they were barely bigger than a bee. They are quite unworried about their audience and everyone was trying to get good photos of them. They are a difficult subject as their wings are beating so fast and they dart around so much.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2wTX8Askpd5MqC69vkmhTYDHBOiXrB6rRREqURshNMgscSw74fCp0eAnVrVeLGYYVh-FYj5NUn0NhNFjdF1NPVb5v-drEOchIgLVu817bUNnAqCXO1wCH-DR0UyNFzze4ehXnhp42MpQ/s1600/PICT0370.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2wTX8Askpd5MqC69vkmhTYDHBOiXrB6rRREqURshNMgscSw74fCp0eAnVrVeLGYYVh-FYj5NUn0NhNFjdF1NPVb5v-drEOchIgLVu817bUNnAqCXO1wCH-DR0UyNFzze4ehXnhp42MpQ/s320/PICT0370.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Violet-tailed Sylph - a spectacular hummingbird</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />At dinner, the Americans seemed determined to drown out any conversation, the only people to attempt to compete with them were four German ladies! We headed back to our room to read, catch up with blogging and then went to bed.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-34657653343448715612011-12-06T08:10:00.001-08:002011-12-06T08:16:03.733-08:00Galapagos Islands - Quito03 December 2011<br /><br /><br />My 60th birthday! After a very peaceful night at anchor in Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz, we all woke up refreshed, but sorry that we were going to have to leave the boat. We did our final packing and went to breakfast, where Lynn organised all the passengers into singing 'Happy Birthday' to me - very touching! The Captain even came to congratulate me!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5hx-dgxIfJXXWmKUp3WPvjMOFbNJTAldHUVGUqgLZ1WbC32lO4cpXkWK67gEjkcinnl7Wjv3ee8nSVquRMOfBVe39eMsauGYKWbrYQJwtWjw3BUKtMYmjkQ2q8Z63Zx1ciMvU8TbTQM/s1600/PICT0320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK5hx-dgxIfJXXWmKUp3WPvjMOFbNJTAldHUVGUqgLZ1WbC32lO4cpXkWK67gEjkcinnl7Wjv3ee8nSVquRMOfBVe39eMsauGYKWbrYQJwtWjw3BUKtMYmjkQ2q8Z63Zx1ciMvU8TbTQM/s320/PICT0320.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Male Frigate bird over the Galapagos Voyager</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Not long after breakfast, our bags were loaded on a dinghy and taken ashore. After saying a final goodbye to the crew, we too were loaded into the dinghys one last time to go ashore.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qZFeF1LB86ue55J2sYAEny4LdtIOANpZubgv1IC0yFuu68kWGJwmyE1QxKs4AHowwO31na4jbItTeSoK6Xz4ndMJRn6ntCyNG6L_kQGZJ5_e5eem_t5c93cowkD0sq2r65e05pS8JmM/s1600/PICT0323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6qZFeF1LB86ue55J2sYAEny4LdtIOANpZubgv1IC0yFuu68kWGJwmyE1QxKs4AHowwO31na4jbItTeSoK6Xz4ndMJRn6ntCyNG6L_kQGZJ5_e5eem_t5c93cowkD0sq2r65e05pS8JmM/s320/PICT0323.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female Frigate bird over Galapagos Voyager</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />On the shore, we were reunited with our bags and loaded onto a bus for our journey back to the airport at Baltra. On the way, we stopped a twin collapsed volcanic craters for a look. They were quite an impressive sight. Then it was back on the bus and onward toward the airport.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXd4O6aKTnr0q-DqJ1m9wvpf6X23T0r6sMwZLGjYAwAxWOBejJRSFB-FDHSTVSQgzpD8R-AhgS8_kmQUjImfpBXBijugfSB_-yOXtS5GVUntx2HxcgKYUGchv05716hBTwIyajollrQZI/s1600/PICT0343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXd4O6aKTnr0q-DqJ1m9wvpf6X23T0r6sMwZLGjYAwAxWOBejJRSFB-FDHSTVSQgzpD8R-AhgS8_kmQUjImfpBXBijugfSB_-yOXtS5GVUntx2HxcgKYUGchv05716hBTwIyajollrQZI/s320/PICT0343.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road from the summit of Santa Cruz, Baltra Island in distance</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />As before, we had to get off the bus with our luggage and load ourselves, and baggage, onto the small ferry that sails between Santa Cruz and Baltra islands. At the far side, it was off the ferry, make sure our bags were loaded onto a lorry then jump on a small bus up to the airport.<br /><br />At the airport, we again collected our bags and headed for the chaos of check-in. To be fair, it could have been a lot worse and after about 30 minutes we were safely ensconced in the departure lounge waiting for our flight to arrive.<br /><br />The flight was on time, and this time we didn't go via Guayaquil so it was a much quicker journey back to Quito where we were met by someone from the Andean Travel Company.<br /><br />Our trip back to the hotel was somewhat difficult as there were parades going on to mark the foundation of Quito. This festival goes on for a couple of weeks reaching its peak on 06 December.<br /><br />We went out to dinner to Tony Romas for ribs and shrimps, the restaurant was quiet but the food very good. On the way back in the taxi, we drove past Carolina Park where dozens of giant statues of Hummingbirds had been erected. All were decorated in different colours and hoards of people were wandering around looking at them. On the roads, in addition to the usual traffic, there were loads of 'party buses' cruising around. These buses often had a band on the roof, passengers in the trucks and more on platforms suspended from the back of each lorry. There was very loud music from a concert in Carolina Park too.<br /><br />Once back at the hotel, we could still hear the concert so we closed our window and put the airconditioning on. Sometime after midnight the concert ended!<br /><br />What a great birthday, breakfast on a boat in the Galapagos Islands, lunch on a plane crossing the Andes and dinner in the middle of a fiesta in Quito - one to remember!Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-56131524531838953902011-12-06T07:36:00.001-08:002011-12-06T07:52:08.297-08:00Santiago and Bartolome Islands02 December 2011<br /><br /><br />Our overnight journey south across the Equator again was long and rough with the boat pitching and rolling all night. In the morning we found ourselves in calmer seas anchored close to the small island of Bartolome. This island is relatively new, and mainly consists of volcanic cones with little or no vegetation on it.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpHX3iJKDgTA091yqNv8bRJBbbjofieEE5YJu6U01G7ZBEGqs9vE9oynD16u8kNb0XlZyL03aJBpbxDZJGHbvSdnCrWT-TmjCAaTdGkWyAp-YfH9coUYD1ZoCzB9swcFIKvhSmu5GIGw/s1600/PICT0288.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCpHX3iJKDgTA091yqNv8bRJBbbjofieEE5YJu6U01G7ZBEGqs9vE9oynD16u8kNb0XlZyL03aJBpbxDZJGHbvSdnCrWT-TmjCAaTdGkWyAp-YfH9coUYD1ZoCzB9swcFIKvhSmu5GIGw/s320/PICT0288.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Penguin watching on Bartolome</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Straight out of bed, we clambered into the dinghys and went out looking for Galapagos Penguins. There is a small breeding colony on Bartolome and we found them fairly quickly. We all mananged to take a few photographs from the dinghys before the penguins flung themselves into the water to start their daily feeding session.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbd0cgEOQa3CiJ6SJMML8B2XaobbGIiHI6A6AxPELKU7MQ5O2zmCtrgR7kByeuFQ-KJy_xnU8QuQrxkjvca0cCfcb2SNHqcSe37ZVN-qbHnp_4rBKhgJrcpZDz53yYO6Yph9Krkgppxws/s1600/PICT0252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbd0cgEOQa3CiJ6SJMML8B2XaobbGIiHI6A6AxPELKU7MQ5O2zmCtrgR7kByeuFQ-KJy_xnU8QuQrxkjvca0cCfcb2SNHqcSe37ZVN-qbHnp_4rBKhgJrcpZDz53yYO6Yph9Krkgppxws/s320/PICT0252.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galapagos Penguins</td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back on Galapagos Voyager, we had breakfast and sorted ourselves our for our next expedition. Meanwhile the boat had moved closer to neighbouring Santiago Island.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKU7MnvMwNz4VE88HWnW9gfmuCrNTuDP3pVMRdVcFgQeatkoeSBYeQ1iTretu8MnXYmaZoHcqSOehG1XIaUNHK1-_RGO60dgo2IPdDWlOcdT5-IBnnBtHlv0QabOHRBnvHZ5Sfh1jjZus/s1600/PICT0264.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKU7MnvMwNz4VE88HWnW9gfmuCrNTuDP3pVMRdVcFgQeatkoeSBYeQ1iTretu8MnXYmaZoHcqSOehG1XIaUNHK1-_RGO60dgo2IPdDWlOcdT5-IBnnBtHlv0QabOHRBnvHZ5Sfh1jjZus/s320/PICT0264.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galapagos Penguin</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We had a 'wet landing' at Sullivan bay on the island and went out to explore the lava formations. It was very hot walking around on the lava, not from the lava, but from the sun! There were ropes of lava, pools of lava, spatter-cones and collapsed lava bubbles, all very interesting, but very dry and arid.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIG9iTnp2nw4czM2eg1iDWXYuvMg9tdGkTTKgh-J_e9diNwRrKg8of732CzuvHAqiN5PIHVHmqY-bE9qnR4EM4j-ksUhGOT7jttEgrsHWOOyaNRxUfteRans3vg5zjTqNR45qdJLqJXVQ/s1600/IMGA0164.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIG9iTnp2nw4czM2eg1iDWXYuvMg9tdGkTTKgh-J_e9diNwRrKg8of732CzuvHAqiN5PIHVHmqY-bE9qnR4EM4j-ksUhGOT7jttEgrsHWOOyaNRxUfteRans3vg5zjTqNR45qdJLqJXVQ/s320/IMGA0164.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lava Ropes with vegetation trying to take hold</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Back on the beach at Sullivan Bay, we were very pleased to go snorkelling to cool down. As usual, there were plenty of reef fish swimming around. Some of our party saw a turtle and one lucky soul saw a penguin swimming underwater.After cooling down in the water, we headed back to the boat for an early lunch. We have a long sail ahead of us this afternoon back to Santa Cruz.<br /><br />After lunch we got back in the dinghys and had a 'dry landing' on Bartolome. A walkway has been built from the shore all the way to the summit of the volcano. It was quite a steep climb, but the views on the way up and from the top were well worth it. After several photo stops, we headed back down to the jetty, got on the dinghys and headed back to the boat.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmCOOSIOQALUrM9UHtCDwC-aOHRca2_xUDI5AuSMjrDkU60IoS6qjcBYcsjxVJZiNSIjr9h87Vho91qhK26pllns9CzyfZ0aUBWTWpJvyVfIwgqJrHAgHyFJjJlxgxS1oDTSOXNngiQ1E/s1600/PICT0291.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmCOOSIOQALUrM9UHtCDwC-aOHRca2_xUDI5AuSMjrDkU60IoS6qjcBYcsjxVJZiNSIjr9h87Vho91qhK26pllns9CzyfZ0aUBWTWpJvyVfIwgqJrHAgHyFJjJlxgxS1oDTSOXNngiQ1E/s320/PICT0291.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galapagos Voyager from Bartolome Island</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Before we had even reached the boat, it had pulled up the anchor and come across to meet us. Once on board, the dinghys were hoisted up onto the boat and we headed off.<br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the summit of Bartolome</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Our route took us from Bartolome, around to the north of Baltra, through the sound between Baltra and Seymour and then down the east coast of Santa Cruz. Most of us sat in the loungers on the middle deck and kept our eyes open for whales, dolphins and birds! Whilst we didn't see any of the first two, we did, as usual, have an escort of frigate birds follow us most of the way. They cruise just about the boat and exactly the same speed. One eventually came and landed on edge of one of the dinghys, right alongside us!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_acAvcbkUrKjKf8Xd8FGa4t08BeI7gWDPauf6P_mjbZQayKQDNw37SwRzwL2cmhpyXjmHbAQzpk9RfRVrd82k2UF4-0A7dehCwRQT5CO1gOwrK3fam4Pptk-SI9uTkgYm2CzuNb-OVnI/s1600/PICT0337.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_acAvcbkUrKjKf8Xd8FGa4t08BeI7gWDPauf6P_mjbZQayKQDNw37SwRzwL2cmhpyXjmHbAQzpk9RfRVrd82k2UF4-0A7dehCwRQT5CO1gOwrK3fam4Pptk-SI9uTkgYm2CzuNb-OVnI/s320/PICT0337.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Male Frigate bird</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We had a final evening briefing at 6.30 and said our goodbyes to the crew and then ate dinner whilst the boat was still sailing. Fortunately, it was a fairly smooth sea!<br />
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Not long after dinner, we anchored up in Santa Cruz harbour from where we had set off a week previously. There were offers to run us ashore, but everyone declined as we had packing to do. As usual, everyone headed from bed fairly early, know that it would be a quiet and stable night moored in the harbour!Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-12725300985029503772011-12-05T18:37:00.001-08:002011-12-06T06:59:26.345-08:00Genovesa Island01 Dec 2011<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boats at anchor in the Genovesa flooded caldera</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Overnight, we crossed the equator back into the northern hemisphere, just! We are just a few minutes north of the line in the flooded caldera that is Genovesa Island. Apart from the entrance, we are almost entirely surround by land.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgliXsehTgdp9-PlvUiFR23YXdcnI2Qlgg312W90eVhbGHzxRSbyPkehVsF7sAXDsBq4VV7uk8rrzHf9hQ-L4C2SSYtpuFplv00ihS_z9fJjLcA4u8Scn8UeQM36FEmjsGDAPfLJzZKhDs/s1600/PICT0171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgliXsehTgdp9-PlvUiFR23YXdcnI2Qlgg312W90eVhbGHzxRSbyPkehVsF7sAXDsBq4VV7uk8rrzHf9hQ-L4C2SSYtpuFplv00ihS_z9fJjLcA4u8Scn8UeQM36FEmjsGDAPfLJzZKhDs/s320/PICT0171.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prince Philip's Steps</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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After breakfast, it's the usual routine, grab cameras, binoculars, drinking water, sun-block and trainers and into the dinghys. Our landing point is Prince Philip Steps,named after his Royal Highness following his visit in the 1960s. This was to be our first encounter with Reds-footed Boobies who nest in low bushes. They are rather comical with blue face and bill and bright red feet. We also saw lots of Blue-footed Boobies and Nazca Boobies, the latter mainly white with a black mask on their face. Also nesting were Frigate birds and we even saw a Short-Eared Owl, hiding in the rocks. The owls mainly eat the Galapagos Shearwaters, of which there were tens of thousands flying around the island. Shearwaters nest in holes, so the owls sit outside the holes.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-JBtg3XXIvGrvt-gO63zQngSKMZn8m0-I4ccdF3hgQ2XzaUKaXSYgL7CfVPsqfqGXQAZ2fibtXm-B6vBKN-3bCLuNGEZV_qMqZYpn4CXAlTkuXcm4CXtbRFDfjHxbFgCYxgaZDJHOvc/s1600/PICT0172.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5-JBtg3XXIvGrvt-gO63zQngSKMZn8m0-I4ccdF3hgQ2XzaUKaXSYgL7CfVPsqfqGXQAZ2fibtXm-B6vBKN-3bCLuNGEZV_qMqZYpn4CXAlTkuXcm4CXtbRFDfjHxbFgCYxgaZDJHOvc/s320/PICT0172.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Short-eared Owl</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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The birds on these islands have no fear of predators, so often you have to step over them as they are on the path, they also nest in bushes at eye-level along the path, so nature is really in your face here.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5MzgJLKCw4QWbqULcTU4YgxLidJW6G-S4Jejd15SbxPTnnljlLW1lcpNa0RPJ2t9bpWKS2UbH7OWH2fWDvNK7LQ3c4VVp6O4bdooQtNk4uv7aUD7NIVbjUKTxtiB8BQOBz5Itls1XKuc/s1600/PICT0163.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5MzgJLKCw4QWbqULcTU4YgxLidJW6G-S4Jejd15SbxPTnnljlLW1lcpNa0RPJ2t9bpWKS2UbH7OWH2fWDvNK7LQ3c4VVp6O4bdooQtNk4uv7aUD7NIVbjUKTxtiB8BQOBz5Itls1XKuc/s320/PICT0163.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blue-footed Booby</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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After lunch, we were taken across the caldera in the dinghys to a low cliff, Here, we heaved ourselves over the side and went snorkelling, primarily looking for Hammerhead Sharks. There were lots of familiar reef fish here and eventually, we found a Hammerhead cruising just below us, a magnificent sight!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKYKSugLhpqVeSSBfNAG0rr90pyq6Z_LBAACv5vtNvXxyYbgB4ZW0EBzjBoas_nnRU9qvrvUA-hMtMZtROwsiuQsu3GdUVG9Nd0hIYA9TvplmtXWHUMfpPzxCfEKq5Osw-owea9aNv2Tk/s1600/PICT0177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKYKSugLhpqVeSSBfNAG0rr90pyq6Z_LBAACv5vtNvXxyYbgB4ZW0EBzjBoas_nnRU9qvrvUA-hMtMZtROwsiuQsu3GdUVG9Nd0hIYA9TvplmtXWHUMfpPzxCfEKq5Osw-owea9aNv2Tk/s320/PICT0177.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nazca Booby</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Our guide was feeling cold at this stage so he got back in the dinghy, whilst we started snorkelling back to our start point. Because the snorkelling site is on the inside walls of the flooded volcano, the walls just disappear down into the gloom, but sometime where the wall had collapsed, we could see the bottom and found a school of Manta Rays just below us, we were so lucky.<br />
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Back to the boat for lunch and after a break we headed back to the shore, this time at Darwin Bay where we went for a brief walk along the cliff and saw all the usual boobies, Herons and Frigate Birds. When we arrived back at the beach, we went snorkelling again, but it wasn't as good as the morning snorkel. That said, we did get to swim with four, two-metre long, White-Tipped Reef Sharks, who were only a metre or two away from us. As usual, they weren't really interested in us, but it is the only time I've snorkelled with them, usually I've seen them whilst diving!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSdWECdgaFoXXSDPEE6ZP6I6jaoMxvgKZLn9V03o-gm5AyvHHyskRZ9YrQsySlvqFXDpY-gA91LqouTCozLJi2-ajyIOh74KIl22Zc4HV-l_CY4G9fkc6XFRlobdyKtkkniJMTwIM6pXA/s1600/PICT0227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSdWECdgaFoXXSDPEE6ZP6I6jaoMxvgKZLn9V03o-gm5AyvHHyskRZ9YrQsySlvqFXDpY-gA91LqouTCozLJi2-ajyIOh74KIl22Zc4HV-l_CY4G9fkc6XFRlobdyKtkkniJMTwIM6pXA/s320/PICT0227.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-footed Booby</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Back on the boat, we have dinner and prepare ourselves for another long overnight cruise.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-86845742664377161702011-12-05T18:19:00.001-08:002011-12-05T18:26:08.198-08:00Santa Cruz and Baltra Islands30 Nov 2011<br /><br /><br />We are getting used to the long overnight cruises, but we don't sleep particularly well, especially when the boat rolls and we think we are going to be flung out of bed! The pitching isn't so bad, although sometimes when your head is below the height of your feet, it feels a bit weird.<br /><br />112<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_KpX8CrjHZ66SD7HMwnOks7uUmmiMdOCaRYlBwNJ0KHiZLRFqHJ0X2HmFJu_N9UCsiuAT-qMph6NT-wJdtU9D05P8Ilo39uZZBwzLf7mY__cj7zrsdKyOpawnyiNVQi7SyEbb3w6Cjsw/s1600/PICT0112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_KpX8CrjHZ66SD7HMwnOks7uUmmiMdOCaRYlBwNJ0KHiZLRFqHJ0X2HmFJu_N9UCsiuAT-qMph6NT-wJdtU9D05P8Ilo39uZZBwzLf7mY__cj7zrsdKyOpawnyiNVQi7SyEbb3w6Cjsw/s320/PICT0112.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dawn at Santa Cruz Island</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />This morning, after breakfast, we landed on Bacha Beach on northern Santa Cruz Island. we found Pelicans, Whimbrels, Sanderlings, Common Noddies, Flamingos, Pin-tailed Ducks and Great Herons. We also encounter a large, noisy group of American tourist that provided us with some entertainment!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDBtundNDetCd7IhRThC48jshO8QQyqCE4O-v21lscUWYZ1091Sw3f13ZBCo5y20ZpGOkQQmRslBOtPhHUKHT3kUV2xKoy8t5p0qZPFTO2jErUkI_kIOBGb_wzQUZiQVS8aXq_7D9mZyM/s1600/PICT0122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDBtundNDetCd7IhRThC48jshO8QQyqCE4O-v21lscUWYZ1091Sw3f13ZBCo5y20ZpGOkQQmRslBOtPhHUKHT3kUV2xKoy8t5p0qZPFTO2jErUkI_kIOBGb_wzQUZiQVS8aXq_7D9mZyM/s320/PICT0122.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flamingo</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back on the boat, we sailed across to Baltra Island where the boat was refuelled. We were confined to our cabins whilst this is going on for safety reasons!<br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great Heron</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After lunch, we arrived back off the coast of Santa Cruz at Black Turtle Creek. We got into the dinghys and after a rather 'hairy' chase through the surf and around the rocks we entered the sheltered lagoon,and our boatmen took us around the brackish waters of the creeks that are surrounded by mangroves. There were plenty of Night Herons, but most people were fascinated to see Turtles mating in the shallow waters. Apparently the mating process takes several hours with the males clinging on to the backs of the females, whilst other hopeful males circle the couple!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT_2sNcqLu0_Q0bxgZN9Sd3cnolD85pnbRCJhLkWgYq_ZDnkJwmKvqdSlWINyVVf5SRWHjYylDK0KNR6hHHyROP0Jsrllivq3jIVA4TG3MZqJxyt2sYwvA4FBxVMoI3oiUaXKXvBBdtUE/s1600/PICT0151.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT_2sNcqLu0_Q0bxgZN9Sd3cnolD85pnbRCJhLkWgYq_ZDnkJwmKvqdSlWINyVVf5SRWHjYylDK0KNR6hHHyROP0Jsrllivq3jIVA4TG3MZqJxyt2sYwvA4FBxVMoI3oiUaXKXvBBdtUE/s320/PICT0151.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Female Turtle</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Also in the mangrove lakes we saw several large Rays and White-Tipped Reef Sharks, I had no idea Reef Sharks frequented such shallow lagoons!<br /><br />140<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8gs1tglUYag2QmVNGntB61x-o411m5Ie_SopHYmZ8p9yIAyoEyX7vxe35USOMGOozIlL8A5NtZPpxtmZ6KzXcByAGesTNbRJJjHZJ8uuumrKlwKAFKbCJvHJmrpUM-sZnoUKAfIkkfsE/s1600/PICT0140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8gs1tglUYag2QmVNGntB61x-o411m5Ie_SopHYmZ8p9yIAyoEyX7vxe35USOMGOozIlL8A5NtZPpxtmZ6KzXcByAGesTNbRJJjHZJ8uuumrKlwKAFKbCJvHJmrpUM-sZnoUKAfIkkfsE/s320/PICT0140.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lava Heron</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back on board ship we had dinner and the boat immediately pulled up the anchor for another long overnight cruise. Some time around midnight, we will cross the equator back into the Northern Hemisphere.<br />Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-89690605645816321202011-12-05T18:03:00.001-08:002011-12-05T18:10:30.135-08:00Leon Dormida and San Cristobal Islands29 Nov 2011<br /><br /><br />After another long overnight cruise, we arrived at Leon Dormida Island, just off the coast of San Cristobal Island. Most people are becoming acclimatised to the boat now, and most managed a decent nights sleep, despite the slight swell.<br /><br />The boat hadn't anchored and we slowly cruised around the impressive lava cliffs of Leon Dormida, or Sleeping Lion in spanish. We had been expecting loads of sea birds to be nesting on the cliffs, but the birds don't really have predators, so most nest in low bushes or on the ground. We did see a few Blue-footed Boobies and Frigate birds roosting in bushes though.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FpQzkCZKdMl5haNAc6biGiTpmGu3b-2HXGjMA5oQge1LiF6ZMBmxmW6YdLgI7qSmpnbQNBQB68nLB8nY9nOJOiNsPgULY3noH2DhiRH2ogexXTJoxDCRN9WOidvOxr3gRBIj_qT-bXk/s1600/PICT0087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7FpQzkCZKdMl5haNAc6biGiTpmGu3b-2HXGjMA5oQge1LiF6ZMBmxmW6YdLgI7qSmpnbQNBQB68nLB8nY9nOJOiNsPgULY3noH2DhiRH2ogexXTJoxDCRN9WOidvOxr3gRBIj_qT-bXk/s320/PICT0087.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leon Dormida Island</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We then had breakfast whilst the boat cruised on to Puerto Baquarizo Moreno on southern San Cristobal Island. This is quite a big port and we came ashore onto a jetty in the middle of town. A bus was waiting to take us to the Interpretation Centre where we learned more about the formation of the islands, the colonisation by birds, animals and plants and finally a bit about the human history of the islands, including inevitably Charles Darwin.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG_kvincC-95Q1mIAlA2QxHDo8vQ4zHtZv8lnID2ITuMuw2rcZYN8LcDr3P3usJS1ZJColQErZTyEtEvOOguF0O0oBiVTYBinfGutm0p08zdHDRo9Rx9etBB8_rFL8W4WwHX9YDNhxZqI/s1600/PICT0110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG_kvincC-95Q1mIAlA2QxHDo8vQ4zHtZv8lnID2ITuMuw2rcZYN8LcDr3P3usJS1ZJColQErZTyEtEvOOguF0O0oBiVTYBinfGutm0p08zdHDRo9Rx9etBB8_rFL8W4WwHX9YDNhxZqI/s320/PICT0110.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Puerto Baquarizo Moreno - San Cristobal</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back in town we were free to wander around for an hour or so, and most took the chance to visit the tourist shops on the sea-front and have a beer or coffee. We ate an icecream sitting on bench by the sea, with two Sea-Lions sound asleep underneath the bench next to us!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Bjo9xovyAyJXPHCdOYhSL-VJ3JY0yRPuCLkfJAy0KC9CgJ-jZdhmqwqtsSLBxtNxcItAmcIU9RjbJd-_bCaQ-6VpYyEEAJHOBpkeUJkuovFhAnP_ZGnqnSAAqR8Z5_ywnScoZE4nHXA/s1600/PICT0098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4Bjo9xovyAyJXPHCdOYhSL-VJ3JY0yRPuCLkfJAy0KC9CgJ-jZdhmqwqtsSLBxtNxcItAmcIU9RjbJd-_bCaQ-6VpYyEEAJHOBpkeUJkuovFhAnP_ZGnqnSAAqR8Z5_ywnScoZE4nHXA/s320/PICT0098.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Basking Sea-Lion on the Promenade</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We had lunch on board, then returned to the port and a trip to a beach just outside town for some snorkelling. The sea was quite rough and the bay a bit stony, but immediately I put my head in the water I encountered a large female Turtle. As I swam around I found two more turtles cruising around in the shallow water. As usual, we shared the beach with Sea-Lion. The dominant Bull cruises up and down the beach, sometimes lurching up on to shore if it spots another male trying to sneak in for a look at his harem of female Sea-Lions.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPswhosGxZ_F_YPaEZUsDDsZ1dbAx9ARaKBllKaDZ8m1X7QDWXDhGKupgtpnorqg3amqVvabKbmL5A_HYXWRM-uum0hHJHlq5eVTYs4VzotG3IezTqp-Fsb6G9h1QP8G6QYg_oOIw8SHY/s1600/PICT0106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPswhosGxZ_F_YPaEZUsDDsZ1dbAx9ARaKBllKaDZ8m1X7QDWXDhGKupgtpnorqg3amqVvabKbmL5A_HYXWRM-uum0hHJHlq5eVTYs4VzotG3IezTqp-Fsb6G9h1QP8G6QYg_oOIw8SHY/s320/PICT0106.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bull Sea-Lion - beach-master</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We did see a tourist deciding to rush into the water for a swim, whilst the male was passing. The bulls can be aggressive, but in this instance got close enough to frighten the errant swimmer.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ixU9FxQeFZyO9sSG0P0Fxy9xXqBKwHCtkJnELWsQH3mQSVSMlNJWnINfeKYkisJvn_NFYc7MCAkS38OOs3s_ZGdRhkD6k-Wu0LNEEh02MSNSk9WHXZPvQ5ObxCDtGDIXWcC5lKIzsP8/s1600/PICT0096.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4ixU9FxQeFZyO9sSG0P0Fxy9xXqBKwHCtkJnELWsQH3mQSVSMlNJWnINfeKYkisJvn_NFYc7MCAkS38OOs3s_ZGdRhkD6k-Wu0LNEEh02MSNSk9WHXZPvQ5ObxCDtGDIXWcC5lKIzsP8/s320/PICT0096.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Passengers from Galapagos Voyager landing at the jetty</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After an hour of lazing in the beach, we headed back into town and hopped on the dinghys back to the boat.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-66624941583972831912011-12-05T17:52:00.001-08:002011-12-05T18:00:01.323-08:00Espanola Island28 Nov 2011<br />
<br />Following an overnight cruise, we woke up next to Punta Suarez on Espanola Island. I say woke up, but I suspect that many people didn't sleep well on the first overnight cruise. No matter, we survived, which is as well as we have several more nights of cruising ahead of us.<br /><br />Our cabin was one of two double-bedded cabins on the boat and was located on the starboard side of the boat on the main deck. The windows above the deck looked out to the bow of the boat. The side windows looked onto the outside passage-way running along the side of boat. As well as a double bed, we had a small cupboard, some drawers under the bed and a small shower-room with loo and washbasin in it. Due to the size of the boat, one side of the bed was against a wall (my side of the bed!).<br /><br />There were 4 cabins, two doubles and two twins, on this deck as well as the dining room and lounge area. Right at the stern, there was an open fantail deck which we used for getting on and off dinghys. On the deck above, were a further four twin-bed cabins, the bridge and a covered sun deck at the stern. Above this, was an open sun deck with loungers and the all-important washing-line! Some days our boat looked a bit like a floating laundry.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTM5GZdhyphenhyphenWnLLhofmC0CGMTtzFklc3pLRCfw-3SvC57s_u1Sd4z0lxLx0PBNZCtCr1btDDfLjK4ivuZYGRcZyfL3PEG-wxmoZvz36sVVNEzbdbca-NPkwRYvJmpZk0Om5wdKlrR0pAHc/s1600/PICT0052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuTM5GZdhyphenhyphenWnLLhofmC0CGMTtzFklc3pLRCfw-3SvC57s_u1Sd4z0lxLx0PBNZCtCr1btDDfLjK4ivuZYGRcZyfL3PEG-wxmoZvz36sVVNEzbdbca-NPkwRYvJmpZk0Om5wdKlrR0pAHc/s320/PICT0052.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Waved-Albatross Chick - a handsome little critter!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After breakfast, we boarded our dinghy and headed for Punta Suarez on Espanola Island, one of the most southerly of the islands we will visit. Our walk on island included seeing myriads of marina Iguanas, Nazca Boobies, Sea-lions, Waved Albatrosses, Espanola Mockingbirds, and several Galapagos Hawks. The Waved Albatrosses only nest on this island and it is the end of the breeding season, so it was wonderful to see them and their horribly ugly babies. We also saw a couple of adults going through the courtship rituals, but they won't mate this year as they are due to leave for the ocean-wandering life-style next month.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-I4vy8bmt3pZpKQm1dNSy4wpeQFep2InyLyyXMcMJpbySSBeAIxkBwwNEj0oCvb44DoF1pzmndx7xOCWuNpFFqrzD-_rtW93m7hAz2aPY17Q1Snq1XlgSJGgL3V8uaHVWWwfPEtjQxHk/s1600/PICT0074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-I4vy8bmt3pZpKQm1dNSy4wpeQFep2InyLyyXMcMJpbySSBeAIxkBwwNEj0oCvb44DoF1pzmndx7xOCWuNpFFqrzD-_rtW93m7hAz2aPY17Q1Snq1XlgSJGgL3V8uaHVWWwfPEtjQxHk/s320/PICT0074.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adult Waved-Albatross</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />The photographers amongst us, have at last moved on from 'snapping' every cute baby bird/crab/seal immediately they step on shore and we are all getting a little blase about stepping over and around birds/crabs/iguanas that have absolutely no fear of humans.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2oy1PnF_iEASmA5DjUMnnqIcYtPBX4KtiK-c2oHAsymb0k-OSqKQx5NzI7rpNPTaHSfi0ry7zNTJnlizKA1WICiaNxNvSFhpirWxSOKF9xi1NmXsgfYZ7WvQ1P1KmQFvQXXTppWWWYYc/s1600/IMGA0004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2oy1PnF_iEASmA5DjUMnnqIcYtPBX4KtiK-c2oHAsymb0k-OSqKQx5NzI7rpNPTaHSfi0ry7zNTJnlizKA1WICiaNxNvSFhpirWxSOKF9xi1NmXsgfYZ7WvQ1P1KmQFvQXXTppWWWYYc/s320/IMGA0004.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Male Marine Iguana - or a Doctor Who character</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back on board the ship, lunch was served as we cruised to Gardiner Bay, then after time for lunch to digest, it was across to the beach for some snorkelling. We had the thrill of snorkelling with Sea-Lions, although it is a little unnerving to see a grey shape heading toward you underwater. They were just curious and never really got close to us. We also saw quite a lot a large Rays as well.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilaDXF4fhWutHM_-BUdmCS-c6hEX54dLAblksWRh1y8blnQ_lg5bUtG2-c17ydseHHZljd4v826NfKdZLbX-IWD2szdqyQOmvjqstpAWmVfMWS2jpaNQo2dDbobYGC2rZCk6fcNXb_iaA/s1600/IMGA0066.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilaDXF4fhWutHM_-BUdmCS-c6hEX54dLAblksWRh1y8blnQ_lg5bUtG2-c17ydseHHZljd4v826NfKdZLbX-IWD2szdqyQOmvjqstpAWmVfMWS2jpaNQo2dDbobYGC2rZCk6fcNXb_iaA/s320/IMGA0066.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galapagos Mockingbird about to take up snorkelling</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back on ship we relaxed on deck until dinnertime. Following dinner most people went to bed fairly early to catch up with sleep, and to attempt to get to sleep before we started moving again.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-62346214192566029192011-12-05T17:35:00.001-08:002011-12-05T17:43:08.081-08:00Santa Cruz Island - South Plaza Island - Santa Fe Island27 Nov 2011<br /><br /><br />Our slumbers on board were rudely disturbed at 3.00 with the ships anchor being pulled up and the chain being stored directly under our cabin! We slept fitfully, as we continued cruising until 6.00 when the anchor went back down.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFm15fdByQb7RSO-RkvuOp1XT7Vow_TfjXCD3hK8wbwbib_X6m5UscPj338Me5yf8mDtBMKUsbwwstAFyIaIIYGs_OSHAIxpe3GMC7cFepVvEaISSjLnOZXkT5rZiJl4Dzq0aDwQkGQOc/s1600/PICT0016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFm15fdByQb7RSO-RkvuOp1XT7Vow_TfjXCD3hK8wbwbib_X6m5UscPj338Me5yf8mDtBMKUsbwwstAFyIaIIYGs_OSHAIxpe3GMC7cFepVvEaISSjLnOZXkT5rZiJl4Dzq0aDwQkGQOc/s320/PICT0016.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Galapagos Voyager moored at South Plaza Island</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />At breakfast at 7.00, this was to become routine breakfast time, we found ourselves anchored alongside South Plaza Island. On the low cliffs we could see lots of sea-birds roosting and overhead, Frigate Birds and one or two Red-Billed Tropic-birds.<br /><br />Not long after breakfast, we did a 'dry-landing' on South Plaza island and made the acquaintance of Galapagos Sea-lions. 'Dry landing' meant our inflatable dinghy pulling up to a jetty/steps/rocks so we could step off in trainers.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOttCNeDXhOd2sEdWoFgzoK5wLdShSCKqsrE-LjDOZEBxdiBDwVyb15dvhBlH7WN7BdzmgK53rSgK6Vca-2hbd6YWdqbPnt-ExXd31o8rKuzO-yaOVWlBe4kLREpNoHfdkVwrjVvzx0gA/s1600/PICT0020.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOttCNeDXhOd2sEdWoFgzoK5wLdShSCKqsrE-LjDOZEBxdiBDwVyb15dvhBlH7WN7BdzmgK53rSgK6Vca-2hbd6YWdqbPnt-ExXd31o8rKuzO-yaOVWlBe4kLREpNoHfdkVwrjVvzx0gA/s320/PICT0020.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sally-Lightfoot Crab</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After a walk with our guide, Williams, we returned to the boat with cameras full of pictures of birds, Sally-lighfoot Crabs and Land Iguanas.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4kzpQYekQ2Tbexk2QW4MMhoR5dVGOxSraCqgY_FtNgpIlpCjMDrIlM0joMLxefZortjqWRKYs9Gfn4U7NKRzmh2_fFmqjcxxkXj24McPiO9vtG1A29RoD42t2najbgHCO41qnNemEMo/s1600/PICT0018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjU4kzpQYekQ2Tbexk2QW4MMhoR5dVGOxSraCqgY_FtNgpIlpCjMDrIlM0joMLxefZortjqWRKYs9Gfn4U7NKRzmh2_fFmqjcxxkXj24McPiO9vtG1A29RoD42t2najbgHCO41qnNemEMo/s320/PICT0018.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Male Land Iguana in breeding colours</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />The boat then sailed to Santa Fe Island whilst we had lunch.<br /><br />After lunch, it was into the dinghy and off to Barrington Bay where we had a 'wet-landing'. This entailed reversing the dinghy into a beach, then all of us clambering out into the sea to walk up onto the beach. During this landing, we started to get to know the 'foibles'of some of our fellow guests. Watching someone hopping around on a sandy beach trying to rinse sand of feet, dry feet, put socks on and then lace up trainers did provide some amusement!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicns0DQUfI5ihZ-MaAtFhLmJEuCWk2AtpB_hiXTrdo2ex822DxGXodRszBFXzr3RJAkqvBR1O4okOAs_SOGf4QdZvgLdfSLBx0FtaNhTEsRCwSduKMhioDAg1OHHnMKM5UUGHq-eWhvHk/s1600/PICT0022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicns0DQUfI5ihZ-MaAtFhLmJEuCWk2AtpB_hiXTrdo2ex822DxGXodRszBFXzr3RJAkqvBR1O4okOAs_SOGf4QdZvgLdfSLBx0FtaNhTEsRCwSduKMhioDAg1OHHnMKM5UUGHq-eWhvHk/s320/PICT0022.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bull Sea-Lion guarding his beach</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Shortly after getting out of the boat a male Sea-Lion charged up the beach to inspect us and make lots of noise to impress his rivals! After a short walk around, we had the chance to snorkel. The water was cool, but the visibility was good and we saw lots of reef fish, Parrot-fish, Bump-head Wrasse, Giant Damselle fish, Puffer fish and Sergeant-majors.<br /><br />Back on the boat we had a chance to relax before dinner with a beer. We then attended the 6.30 briefing, during which Williams told us the plans for the next 24 hours. After this we had a three-course dinner, which once again was excellent. Not long after dinner, the anchor came up and we we headed for Espanola Island, a seven hour overnight cruise away. The sea was a little choppy, and several people started to suffer from sea-sickness.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-14301473290298235822011-12-05T17:29:00.001-08:002011-12-05T17:32:42.895-08:00Quito - Galapagos Islands26 Nov 2011<br /><br />Quito - Galapagos<br /><br />5.30 is a great time of the morning - oh yes it is! Another trip back to the airport awaited us after breakfast, but at least as it was weekend, the traffic was a little less mad.<br /><br />Quito airport made up for it in spades though! Check in reminded me of a rock concert just after they open the doors and everyone is trying to get to the front by the stage. After some searching, we did find there were a number of what might have been queues, but no visual sign about which desk was handling which flight. There were flights to Cuenca, Coca, Guayaquil and Baltra all leaving at roughly the same time. People for the earliest flight to Cuenca were behind us and they were sometimes helped by officials to get to the front of the scrum. Suddenly, our 'queue' started moving and we managed to pick up boarding passes and check in our luggage. By this time it was less than 30 minutes before our flight was due to leave and we still had security to deal with.<br /><br />Once in the departure lounge, we heard that final boarding for our flight was taking place, so we rushed straight through and out onto the tarmac where there were 2 aircraft. Luckily, we got the right one, because there was no obvious signs as to which was going where.<br /><br />Amazingly, the flight almost left on time and we headed to Guayaquil some 30 minutes flying time away. Guayaquil lies on the Pacific coast and is Ecuadors biggest city. Once there, we stayed on the aircraft whilst many others left the flight. The cleaners came on and cleaned around us and then quickly they started boarding more passengers.<br /><br />New arrivals include a noisy party of South Koreans, but soon after we were airborne for the 2 hour flight out into the Pacific to the Galapagos Islands. Also on our flight was a huge party from Tupperware who were on a day trip to the Galapagos! I wonder how much they had to sell to get a 'jolly' like that?<br /><br />We had excellent views of some of the islands as we came in to land, the sea was an electric blue colour. Once off the aircraft, we were carefully checked in to make sure that we'd payed our National Park Entrance Fee of $100. <br /><br />The main airport in the Galapagos is at Baltra, an airfield built by the Americans during the 2nd World War mainly to be able to defend the Panaman Canal not too far to the north. The island is very flat and the foundations and ruins of the enormous airbase are still easily visible.<br /><br />Arrivals was just a largish shed (perhaps I'm doing it a disfavour here) and luggage was moved into the shed on tractors and trailers. It was then uncermoniously dumped on the floor and a 'sniffer dog' let loose in amongst the bags. Food and seeds are forbidden to be imported to the islands, in case it contaminates the ecostructure of the islands.<br /><br />We boarded a small coach that took us to the channel between Baltra and Santa Cruz Islands. Here we got off the coach and saw our luggage off a small lorry. The bags were put on top of the ferry and we all climbed inside. Once on the island of Santa Cruz, a bus was waiting for us and after loading our luggage, we headed south across the island, climbing all the time.<br /><br />332<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigoM_VENFhrq-PpxsY_6s_gn4bf5u2Dc4m5ES7EdGQFSwrPJlQX3mvH73d5OLr26zVp5cynd3NHf-rbANYM9sFXqexcM8zx2bOX2X3qIdy-0O1LpXPZHbV8kUPIt7OEciszaDfIu70XaM/s1600/PICT0332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigoM_VENFhrq-PpxsY_6s_gn4bf5u2Dc4m5ES7EdGQFSwrPJlQX3mvH73d5OLr26zVp5cynd3NHf-rbANYM9sFXqexcM8zx2bOX2X3qIdy-0O1LpXPZHbV8kUPIt7OEciszaDfIu70XaM/s320/PICT0332.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant Land Tortoise</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />High up on the mountain, we took a short diversion to a farm where we saw in excess of 80 giant land tortoises, we decided that we'd seem larger in the Seychelles, but it was interesting to see so many.<br /><br />333<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPIT2K8UnaODdST7WsTTCxCcPOhU6qFjPKEJjmRrAW_WxBSMCD1lIe-bskjUKNxgBgVWt80Z3Ag_YFl7sIq8Qw8D1BJdTHtaLTo6_hRR4NLm8MC3bGnZbek7Ix10vg5RPyuTXhC_3qLg/s1600/PICT0333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNPIT2K8UnaODdST7WsTTCxCcPOhU6qFjPKEJjmRrAW_WxBSMCD1lIe-bskjUKNxgBgVWt80Z3Ag_YFl7sIq8Qw8D1BJdTHtaLTo6_hRR4NLm8MC3bGnZbek7Ix10vg5RPyuTXhC_3qLg/s320/PICT0333.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hot Giant Land Tortoises - trying to cool down</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After an ice-cream, we continued on south, and back downhill, to Puerto Ayora. This small town is the biggest on the island and has many shops, a few hotels and is where many people, including ourselves, join their small cruise boats. We jumped into a inflatable dinghy and motored across to the Galapagos Voyager, our home for the next week. The boat only has eight cabins so there are only ever 16 guests on board.<br /><br />After a quick look at our cabin, we headed back to shore and went to visit the Charles Darwin Research Centre, whose main purpose is to preserve some of the rarer island tortoises. Amongst the inmates of the Centre is 'Lonesome George' the only Giant Tortoise from the island of Pinto left on the planet<br /><br />Back on board, we had a briefing about our programme for the next week and the ships routine was explained. We were told that we would be sailing overnight between midnight and 3.00 in the morning and would be heading to South Plaza Island.<br /><br />After an excellent dinner on board, we settled down in our small cabin for our first night aboard.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-71143195073960449542011-12-05T17:20:00.001-08:002011-12-05T17:33:52.588-08:00Cuenca - Quito25 Nov 2011<br />
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Today we had a real treat, a lie-in!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Convent in Cuenca</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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After a late breakfast, we headed down to the Rio Tomebamba behind the hotel and saw hummingbirds, wagtails and Ruffous-collared Sparrows. Following this, we packed our baga again and then crossed the road for a cup of coffee whilst we waited for our airport transport.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spanish Colonial Houses - Cuenca</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Much to our amazement, Cuenca airport is very modern and air-conditioned, so waiting for our flight was painless. The flight was on time and we headed back north to Quito passing through a storm cloud shortly before landing. I've rarely heard rain so hard on a aircraft fuselage whilst still airborne.<br />
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Quito airport was its usual chaotic self, but we found our tour rep who scooped us up and got us to our bus. We were pleasantly suprised to find Lois 2 driving the bus!<br />
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Back at the Dann Carlton we collected our left luggage and headed back upstairs to unpack and repack in anticipation of our Galapagos trip tomorrow.<br />
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As it was still raining, we snuck through the hotel casino into a back street where we knew there was a restaurant next door to the hotel. The decor in the restaurant was in the 'minimalist' style and had some odd features, not least a couple of tables surround by pink mosquito nets hung from the ceiling. The food was, sort of, nouvelle fusion cuisine and very tasty, but the service was rather variable. This might have been because it was the begining of a fiesta weekend and the restaurant was very busy. Most of the women were given a rose on arrival, but we decided this was for those who had pre-booked.<br />
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Back at the hotel, we logged onto the internet, and shortly after that the room started swaying gently! (I don't think the twos events were associated!) It lasted about 30 seconds and we realised we'd experienced an earth tremor on the fifth floor of a building, an interesting experience! (It seems that earth tremors are so normal, it didn't even make the local press.) We did the last bits of packing and went to bed early as, guess what, we have another early start tomorrow!Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-91559364815766323242011-12-03T18:55:00.001-08:002011-12-03T19:07:10.637-08:00Cuenca24 Nov 2011<br /><br /><br />We were up fairly early again and headed to the dining room to try out breakfast. It was a rather stilted affair as there was no buffet, everything was served at our table. The food was fine and we were entertained by Thrushes and a couple of Hummingbirds in the tree right outside the window.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLDPLzzb3icW1eqY0tlTueYct-mhsVLGR-662zz0kLOK1N0VnnN3N-atc4PsR1-X7Gy7hKZe_AIyUol4i-adrt3L9Q2rCdVUB6fbTooobRE28Sxvk9KjOOkyBkIsMylnYa8wcr4yCZy5I/s1600/PICT0304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLDPLzzb3icW1eqY0tlTueYct-mhsVLGR-662zz0kLOK1N0VnnN3N-atc4PsR1-X7Gy7hKZe_AIyUol4i-adrt3L9Q2rCdVUB6fbTooobRE28Sxvk9KjOOkyBkIsMylnYa8wcr4yCZy5I/s320/PICT0304.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spanish Colonial House - Cuenca</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Lois 1 came to pick us up and we went on a walking tour of the old part of the city. We saw both the old and new Cathedral in the central square and continued to a convent close by where a thriving flower market was ongoing. The walk took us on a circular route that eventually returned us to the hotel. The old city mainly consists of old colonial Spanish buildings and is very attractive.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHIAftjKXNjjNdzd5Bc4hYT8ZEjTAhL34Ql9Gj3Uo-Yaf4xieFalvccmEyzHofgkbH118rzU2ordOhl1NsU8XusI0k72pfKm-kLGvomjACThNZMMQpFteyAn5Efrv1uNmjlGfHq0B2Ug/s1600/PICT0306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEHIAftjKXNjjNdzd5Bc4hYT8ZEjTAhL34Ql9Gj3Uo-Yaf4xieFalvccmEyzHofgkbH118rzU2ordOhl1NsU8XusI0k72pfKm-kLGvomjACThNZMMQpFteyAn5Efrv1uNmjlGfHq0B2Ug/s320/PICT0306.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catedral Vieja - Cuenca</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We almost saw an interesting bird in town, we noticed it tweeting above us as we crossed the street at some traffic lights. Some of us realised more quickly than others that it was an audible sign from the traffic lights indicating that it was safe to cross the road!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZen4AcKhdQGbdVwJu4TjK5Y407GX6V2u5j4s4RGBlVBIMy6J5IV31p2elpaF5knPg99Lcrlxc2ZFzMIXE9lntYWHKNnjjGX4goqExFGUd-Q6tzzRS-TVwN6cRp2Nf_7t3vKy9-la6IxA/s1600/PICT0308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZen4AcKhdQGbdVwJu4TjK5Y407GX6V2u5j4s4RGBlVBIMy6J5IV31p2elpaF5knPg99Lcrlxc2ZFzMIXE9lntYWHKNnjjGX4goqExFGUd-Q6tzzRS-TVwN6cRp2Nf_7t3vKy9-la6IxA/s320/PICT0308.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catedral Nueva - Cuenca</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We also visited a small market in the middle of town, three floors of fruit, vegetable, fish and meat. For those of a squeamish nature, avoid the rest of this paragraph and the next picture. We had previous seen the meat market at Latachunga with it's on-site butchery along with every part of each beast on sale. In Cuenca, they were also selling skinned guinea-pig, I guess it is no different than selling skinned rabbits...<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAIeNaFMeuwqMSq4t4H1C6PBv12qg74PSRQnY3DpPwI5o0U_2CZqRDRxwFaloN_EixA8QbS1NLYRb7Fyyq6rGLNms037MDknAPOkwvozvzvjg2qHTtmTKzHggVUI81emJVD3WGGWeivBo/s1600/PICT0323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAIeNaFMeuwqMSq4t4H1C6PBv12qg74PSRQnY3DpPwI5o0U_2CZqRDRxwFaloN_EixA8QbS1NLYRb7Fyyq6rGLNms037MDknAPOkwvozvzvjg2qHTtmTKzHggVUI81emJVD3WGGWeivBo/s320/PICT0323.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Guinea-pig to go!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back at the hotel, Lois 2 was waiting with the bus and we drove to the Mirador de Turi overlooking the city where the views were very expansive. We also had a chance to visit the ceramics workshop of Eduardo Vega where there were the most beautiful pieces of ceramics for sale, none tremendously expensive. We almost spent some money, but the worry about getting breakables back to UK in one piece stopped us!<br /><br />Onward again by bus to a Panama Hat factory near the airport. Oddly, Panama hats are not made in Panama, but mainly in Ecuador, the best made in Cuenca. The process of fashioning the hats, starts as home industry with women weaving the basic shape from palm leaves in their own homes. Following this, the hats are washed, dried and shaped in the factory and finally have their traditional black band sewn on by hand. The hats range in price from about $20 right up to $2000! The price is dependant on the quality. We handled hats priced at several hundred dollars and those at $20 dollars, the difference is appreciable, the more expensive ones can withstand being screwed up and soaked and still come back to their proper shape, they also feel a lot softer. After the tour we left hatless!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJS66A0W-An_Prg_f55_2gpi1nA9Kp6N6ttg33D_g6dKN1qz4ePwf9_8Zb0_EAtbYxZt0YwWwkJb7gpqqh13JEtcF8vHk3QLuiu0TEg2f82OIJgOsL7MMlqHmoy0cB-tXoWLffJPiSg8/s1600/PICT0330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjJS66A0W-An_Prg_f55_2gpi1nA9Kp6N6ttg33D_g6dKN1qz4ePwf9_8Zb0_EAtbYxZt0YwWwkJb7gpqqh13JEtcF8vHk3QLuiu0TEg2f82OIJgOsL7MMlqHmoy0cB-tXoWLffJPiSg8/s320/PICT0330.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indingenous daily wear</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back at the hotel, we said farewell to Lois 1 and 2 and they set off for Quito in the bus which would take them roughly 9 hours north up the Pan-American Highway.<br /><br />We had a lazy afternoon whilst it thundered and rained, but ventured out to a textile market eventually, thinking that the rain had stopped. Wrong! We dodged around trying to avoid getting soaked and looking at the shops.<br /><br />In the evening, we returned to Raymipampa restaurant as we had been so impressed by the food. Several of the group tried the Churaszo whilst I tried Camarones - Ecuador Prawns. (I think someone told me that Ecuador is the 2nd or 3rd largest exporter of frozen prawns in the world).Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-1464749968152578262011-12-03T14:58:00.001-08:002011-12-03T15:07:48.597-08:00Riobamba - Cuenca23 Nov 2011<br /><br /><br />We are getting used to early starts - really! We left the hotel at 6.00 after we had breakfast and headed through the western flanks of the Andes to Alausi a small town about 1 hour from Riobamba.<br /><br />Here we left the bus and climbed aboard a train which promptly left the station bound for Sibambe a the foot of the 'El Nariz del Diablo' or Devils Nose Railway. This remarkable feat of engineering sees the railway line descend from Alausi to Sibambe, dropping from 2607 metres above sea level to 1806 metres en route at a gradient of 1-in-18. There is no 'rack and pinion' for extra traction and the diesel engine manages to tow trains up and down, albeit rather slowly.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDRXKtnpyqGCKRJgciEM5IMkcXt0mmAsmxmSW7NggDmnsZjYO7MytD1Cmh1z7fJeOkGLB5eqTkeahKr6poWY4HRFjGjRmZWDUThmOYWVM5j167SKegGafAFDrU4EJmYNY2EZujByCcU9A/s1600/PICT0279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDRXKtnpyqGCKRJgciEM5IMkcXt0mmAsmxmSW7NggDmnsZjYO7MytD1Cmh1z7fJeOkGLB5eqTkeahKr6poWY4HRFjGjRmZWDUThmOYWVM5j167SKegGafAFDrU4EJmYNY2EZujByCcU9A/s320/PICT0279.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Nariz del Diablo Railway</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />The line is single track and the ledge was blasted out of the cliff by Jamaican 'slave' labour with huge loss of life in the early 1900s. The route includes a 'zig-zag' during which the train pulls up to buffers whilst the points behind it are changed, then reverses down the next section of track, before repeating the manoeuvre again to start going forward.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHsd7scmnMc9ToFg67xEuui_yoDywOwDh6QGlOA4UdjwSa-ajRArjYlsjFwJwJ3YaMKHp7lC3W_-nP0X5yQMI2TLM3mT0ieV1WsTManxDpu80XDElWlqPeM2_rrRKyrJACx5doatOTchg/s1600/PICT0292.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHsd7scmnMc9ToFg67xEuui_yoDywOwDh6QGlOA4UdjwSa-ajRArjYlsjFwJwJ3YaMKHp7lC3W_-nP0X5yQMI2TLM3mT0ieV1WsTManxDpu80XDElWlqPeM2_rrRKyrJACx5doatOTchg/s320/PICT0292.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lynn and the train at Sibambe station</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />At the bottom, we were treated to a display of Ecuadorian dancing and were given a snack of sandwiches and coffee.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgROlC5U6NJUlzV_x2MIbThAsLzzHlr8O8yA8FO3BO_rbM92bCgb5sWU085c0g0DWRuBffbP_Iy5JAdE8LID1J9sXgBUfRk092zFKeRP5WPXmdZsuguyJgzkMCDdjEKcQohIzqyJ1cCoZI/s1600/PICT0299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgROlC5U6NJUlzV_x2MIbThAsLzzHlr8O8yA8FO3BO_rbM92bCgb5sWU085c0g0DWRuBffbP_Iy5JAdE8LID1J9sXgBUfRk092zFKeRP5WPXmdZsuguyJgzkMCDdjEKcQohIzqyJ1cCoZI/s320/PICT0299.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Train Bus at Sibambe</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />After about an hour, after another single carriage train looking like a bus on railway wheels came down, we started back up the 'Devils Nose' arriving back in Alausi about 30 minutes later. We were involve in a minor tourist incident on the journey back when a petulant German tourist became most abusive because he could sit where he wanted to sit. We eventually defused the situation by moving, for which we were rewarded by the train guard with souvenirs of the railway! Still at least we didn't steal German sun-loungers this time!<br /><br />Once back in Alausi, we got back on the bus and headed out of town to continue our southerly journey. After about an hour, we stopped at a petrol station and ate a packed lunch supplied by the hotel in Riobamba.<br /><br />From hear, we continued south through spectacular mountain scenery to the town of Incapirca, high in the mountains. Here we visited ruins of the Inca town built here. The Inca town was built next to an older native village and included the remains of a spectacular sun temple. It is still a mystery as to how they managed to cut blocks of stone so precisely, as they never discovered steel and only had soft metal tools. Incas also never discovered the wheel either. Whilst we were there, a huge local funeral processed down the hill to the church and cemetary, hundreds of people following the hearse, a barely modified estate car.<br /><br />300<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMGO-vUCvZxIj3RohLDvtRWlCdkHRwTtLFzWCllUQc6VvqcVKctjcxtthXKnCIhlXEOrwbIxpcx_35jpuJq-6Pe07segSWVC9XYayh3KavGJ6YQT1oYI-xi0vcGj8XlAC4fWC2DyTtlA/s1600/PICT0300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMGO-vUCvZxIj3RohLDvtRWlCdkHRwTtLFzWCllUQc6VvqcVKctjcxtthXKnCIhlXEOrwbIxpcx_35jpuJq-6Pe07segSWVC9XYayh3KavGJ6YQT1oYI-xi0vcGj8XlAC4fWC2DyTtlA/s320/PICT0300.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ingapirca ruins</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />During the journey south from here, we encountered a thunder storm and torrential rain.<br /><br />Finally, we started heading downhill to Cuenca situated where 4 rivers join in a mountain valley at 2500 metres. The old part of the city today still mainly consists of Spanish Colonial buildings erected on top of the Inca city after the Spanish had conquered them. It is a delightful city. Our hotel, the Victoria, was built on the edge of the old town and was a converted Colonial mansion. All the rooms overlooked the Rio Tomebamba.<br /><br />After we had checked in, we managed to make a reservation for dinner at Raymipampa cafe/restaurant next to the 'New' Cathedral where we ate fantastic local food, mainly beef and chicken and at very reasonable prices.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-85126812246433737322011-12-03T14:36:00.001-08:002011-12-03T14:47:01.858-08:00Quito - Riobamba22 Nov 2011<br />
<br />Guess what? Yep, another early start as we were due for a pick-up at 8.00 at the hotel. Once again, we stored a couple of bags, just taking one small suitcase with us for the next few days. We'd been told that it might be quite cold up in the mountains and we might get rain too, so we took fleeces and anoraks with us too.<br /><br />Shortly after 8.00 a Mercedes 9-seater mini-bus turned up with Lois the tour guide and Lois the driver. Lois 1 and Lois 2! After loading our luggage and equipped with camera, video and binoculars we bagged the first row of seats. We then continued to another hotel and picked up four more Brits, Ian and Carol and Brenda and Geoff, all from Yorkshire.<br /><br />Getting out of Quito was fairly mad as it was rush-hour, but eventually, we started climbing a hill to the south of the city and stopped briefly for a photo-stop to look down on the capital. The road we were to follow mainly for the next two days was the Pan-American Highway. Clearly the Ecuadorian government is spending a lot of money trying to upgrade the road to dual carriageway for at least 100 miles from Quito. It is clearly a challenge to local drivers to see just how quickly they can progress through the ongoing road-works, including driving on coned-off and indeed un-surfaced sections of the road. It is also essential to overtake on blind bends and double white lines clearly mean you are invited to overtake at any time you like!<br /><br />Nonetheless, the journey was fascinating and gave us an insight into Ecuadorian life not visible from an aeroplane. After a couple of hours, we arrived at Latachunga, a large provincial capital and we stopped at the local market. We were slightly concerned about this visit as often on holiday itineraries, 'local market' usually translates as 'Tourist' market where you are hassled to buy cheap souvenirs. This, however, was very different and was a market for the local people and was selling fruit, vegetables, meat, baskets and other items for daily use. There were also lots of food stalls.<br /><br />We had been told that Ecuador is 'self-sufficient' and doesn't import any food and we could see fabulous fruit and vegetables for sale. The food snack stalls, on the other hand, were selling food deep-fried in batter. It seems that the local diet does not include all the amazing fruit and vegetables, but does include lots of high-fat meals. Much of the fruit and vegetables are apparently rejects for the highly lucrative food export business. Ecuador is a huge exporter of bananas, but only the highest quality and perfect-looking gets sent to places like UK. How sad, especially as prices are very low.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDIbePyXYgL0VikmiFIAhxTi4er0Vch-Haq7xNPxl0tKc6zBI7avtC-eKrs_7kjpRG2SZG_zfOAlimRzv9D8pErNFgtWEFKy3eZvtBskn3-gB1zBp_INXRZLqHc8iDbASBYY0nWqB8RoA/s1600/PICT0238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDIbePyXYgL0VikmiFIAhxTi4er0Vch-Haq7xNPxl0tKc6zBI7avtC-eKrs_7kjpRG2SZG_zfOAlimRzv9D8pErNFgtWEFKy3eZvtBskn3-gB1zBp_INXRZLqHc8iDbASBYY0nWqB8RoA/s320/PICT0238.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Latachunga Market</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We discovered that you can't buy bananas, for instance by picking 2 or 3, but have to tell the stall-holder hour much you are prepared to pay. We asked for 50 cents (35 pence) worth of fresh bananas and ended up with a couple of kilos! We also bought 4 grenadines for 1 dollar. None were wasted as we ate them over the next couple of days, they were delicious.<br /><br />As we drove south we were following the Avenue of Volcanos, named by Alexander Humbolt. Although it was cloudy, we did see Mt Cotopaxi and several other of the high peaks. the snow-line in Ecuador is at 5000 metres all year round, so it is easy to gauge the height of the mountains.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnroSo6-qYTwFOAhLXm87Ne7tGn0VE1ccgLC2bGdBrJ_HIvaT3LoCTLI87wEGx7cZpGdz2GWXob1zmtimFOR50Dx5X0PITqEp4D1kLrbY1wP_gnpWcVLdOtDstqCrFcJRPekCXVxhYNVU/s1600/PICT0229.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnroSo6-qYTwFOAhLXm87Ne7tGn0VE1ccgLC2bGdBrJ_HIvaT3LoCTLI87wEGx7cZpGdz2GWXob1zmtimFOR50Dx5X0PITqEp4D1kLrbY1wP_gnpWcVLdOtDstqCrFcJRPekCXVxhYNVU/s320/PICT0229.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mount Cotopaxi</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />We continued on to Ambata a large city an hour further south and turned off to circumnavigate Mount Chimborazo, another snow-covered volcano about 6200 metres tall. As we started to climb out of the fertile valley, already at 2800 metres above sea-level, the scenery started to change. We slowly lost the trees and moved into the high altiplano or paraimo of scrub and near-desert conditions. These are the conditions that LLama and Alpacas love and we started to see them roaming wild. <br /><br />As we climbed further we and vegetation started to get really sparce, we found wild Vicunyas, another sort of Llama. These high-altitude animals had been hunted to extinction, but the government was now reintroducing them with animals bought from Argentina.<br /><br />253<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYaMoISpEMnJ1qQUMh2lOFZ7UKmP0meDZLeixD7QqCvDK-e2VfLZU8y_lYYSofobCMQg0-CBUNQkbCyjhJm9tFY0fJ85vsJUm3rzZs029hH7kIOkHambd9bKxwydXfDV-x9k5dhjiqxMY/s1600/PICT0253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYaMoISpEMnJ1qQUMh2lOFZ7UKmP0meDZLeixD7QqCvDK-e2VfLZU8y_lYYSofobCMQg0-CBUNQkbCyjhJm9tFY0fJ85vsJUm3rzZs029hH7kIOkHambd9bKxwydXfDV-x9k5dhjiqxMY/s320/PICT0253.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Vicunya - high on Chimborazo</td></tr>
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<br /><br />Finally, high on the slopes of Mt Chimborazo, we turned off up a dirt track toward the Whymper Refuge. This refuge, now mainly abandoned used to be the start point for mountaineers climbing Chimborazo and is named after Edward Whymper, a Brit, who was the first recored climber of the mountain. We briefly parked at the refuge 4700 metres above sea-level and puffed our way up to monument. One or two of our party were begining to feel the effects of altitude sickness, so we quickly got back in the bus and descended to the new Chimborazo Mountain Base-camp and a very late lunch.<br /><br />259<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAOwyg58k80MdWCHj8YFlwoLc8ztPPZulPel-AaQKJ1RhX4-qg2nfg-1KIpbpVx_Un-XYMt3u8_Ulq0PK3hBTY68KJ2dw1SMAOzIhHxFtk4q2LIDYdDnnZuuVPWMGF6Vsp5_2mUqWBxI/s1600/PICT0259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkAOwyg58k80MdWCHj8YFlwoLc8ztPPZulPel-AaQKJ1RhX4-qg2nfg-1KIpbpVx_Un-XYMt3u8_Ulq0PK3hBTY68KJ2dw1SMAOzIhHxFtk4q2LIDYdDnnZuuVPWMGF6Vsp5_2mUqWBxI/s320/PICT0259.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chimborazo - 4700metres above sea level - Whymper Refuge</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Following lunch we carried on down the mountain to Riobamba where we were due to stay. The hotel, a lodge called Abrospungo, was on the outskirts of town and was very peaceful. Due to our late lunch, none us felt hungry, so didn't join the huge party of Germans who were also staying there. Instead we had a beer and a sandwich before heading for bed.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-28667370795185933352011-12-03T14:25:00.001-08:002011-12-03T14:28:43.245-08:00Sacha Lodge - Quito21 Nov 2011<br /><br />Today is our 13th Wedding Anniversary, what a way to celebrate!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvlxGCPJ_R9ZiiywcNdJ6XyGB8rFGoCpte_0eHlBFsybvXFivW4Z6o6Xam4nSj5UZTSKrh8KvxD1wzmaT5032_QbokBvSd9n8_GEeN7TNwEpmBxYxA1jx_SF2Il8yx0nB6hzDTo-XW9Y/s1600/PICT0207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilvlxGCPJ_R9ZiiywcNdJ6XyGB8rFGoCpte_0eHlBFsybvXFivW4Z6o6Xam4nSj5UZTSKrh8KvxD1wzmaT5032_QbokBvSd9n8_GEeN7TNwEpmBxYxA1jx_SF2Il8yx0nB6hzDTo-XW9Y/s320/PICT0207.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening View of Lake Pilchicocha</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />This morning, we had another early start so we could do our packing. Leaving the bags outside the room we ventured down to breakfast, I think we both need to diet after the food we have had for the past few days! Just outside the dining room, about a dozen Black Vultures were roosting in the trees.<br /><br />After breakfast, it was into the canoe for the last journey across Lake Pilchicocha, then the 20 minute walk back to the Rio Napa. During the canoe ride, we saw more Woodpeckers and heard the Red Howler Monkeys again.<br /><br />95<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEDLu3Jm8QcS6NfI1LQdkKuMvJVgeBmGa8MzlYuMs9TQQGv-Ly-HxC5vZZozRvcxohxd4kUeiWr4L9y2lN3hPCKk9NMgT1X3X35sns2hCM7lEvgpq2T4ZwGhlV6GXl3PaXB3_t5ULGXbk/s1600/PICT0095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEDLu3Jm8QcS6NfI1LQdkKuMvJVgeBmGa8MzlYuMs9TQQGv-Ly-HxC5vZZozRvcxohxd4kUeiWr4L9y2lN3hPCKk9NMgT1X3X35sns2hCM7lEvgpq2T4ZwGhlV6GXl3PaXB3_t5ULGXbk/s320/PICT0095.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Baggage canoe on Lake Pilchicocha</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br /><br />Back at the river, it was into the big canoe with enormous outboard engines for the 2 hour, 50 mile journey back up the Rio Napa to Coca. During the journey, we saw quite a bit of bird kife, notably Egrets, White Hawks and Cocoi Herons. A real luxury today was the snack bag we were give to eat en route up the river. <br /><br />Again, it was obvious just how shallow the river is as we slid over several sandbars, one almost caught us, but a huge burst of power from the engines forced us over it.<br /><br />Back at Coca, we again ventured into Sacha House where abandoned our life jackets and picked up some more cold water before the drive to the airport. At the airport it was fairly chaotic and we were informed that our flight had been delayed due to clould at Quito. The wait at the airport was somewhat uncomfortable, especially as the huge air-conditioning units were firmly switched off, despite the temperature being in the mid 80s and humidity at about 90%.<br /><br />Eventually, the aircraft arrived and we departed shortly afterwards on the 30 minute flight back through the Andean Mountains. Snow-covered Cotopaxi could easily be seen from the aircraft.<br /><br />In Quito, there was no sign of our tour rep, so we waited outside fending off various hawkers and taxi-drivers. After a short wait, our rep arrived and we had to hike to the car park to find our car. Luckily traffic wasn't too busy and we got back the Dann Carlton quite quickly.<br /><br />Next, we retrieved our stored luggage and unpacked everything and then repacked in anticipation for our journey down to Cuenca tomorrow. We are starting get the hang of this, which is as well and will be doing it again several times before we leave Ecuador.<br /><br />For our evening meal, we pushed out the boat a bit and found an Argentian Parillia (I think that is the right word) round the corner from the hotel. BBQ meat is the main meal at these places and we both ordered pork ribs, something we both love. I've never seen ribs so large and with so much meat on - one order between two would have been better. As for the taste and quality of the food - it was simply delicious, especially washed down with a bottle of Argentian Wine.<br /><br />All in all, a great and memorable anniversary!Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-38095580697771283902011-12-03T14:14:00.001-08:002011-12-03T15:08:37.811-08:00Sacha Lodge20 Nov 2011<br />
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After a lie-in (to 6.00) we quickly ate breakfast and headed out from the lodge in another small canoe, our destination was Anaconda Creek.<br />
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This creek was the same one that had a Caiman nest in it so we had to take a slight detour to avoid it again. We intended to look for Anacondas and other wild mammals. Before we got into the creek though, we saw and heard several woodpeckers in the trees surrounding Lake Pilchicocha.<br />
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As we entered the creek, we saw several very large Hoatzins crashing around in the trees. These large turkey sized birds are fairly common and seem to be very clumsy as they try to find perches in the trees. Further down the creek we could hear, but not see, Red Howler Monkeys. The noise they make sounds like a strong wind blowing through trees. We got fairly close to them, but never saw them.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoatzin</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
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Deep in the jungle we got out of the canoe and went for a walk through. Once again were looking at the trees and plants. Jaime, our indiginous guide, explained about the medicinal properties of several plants. After about an hour, we found our way back to the canoe and headed back to the lodge. No Anacondas seen!<br />
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Back at the lodge, mid-morning, we were told that monkeys had been seen just behind the dining room. Sure enough we found several Pygmy Monkeys in the low branches of a tree only a few feet from the boardwalk. They are the smallest monkeys found in South America. They were very diffult to photograph as the light was low and the monkeys were scuttling around quite fast.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enormous Blue Moth!</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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Before lunch we visited the butterfly house, some of the larger moths were huge. Not being very skilled at identifying butterflies and moths I couldn't begin to say what we saw. Some moths had huge owl-eyes on the wings and some blue butterflies were enormous. Oddly in the enclosure, there were no Morph butterflies, but we saw these enormous butterflies in the forest around the lodge every day.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx9r1GFHKldL4SLUyXTtJwfOSt78vLwpq-U-ybCE2CRAv9Gl0tfzD8qHB2EwMsiql-MwAM8enn58g9ydWjkofymO4f6_FjFqyNTxtIR42nHHpExBMWHjzL1iWA0BXwUBYKgFJfDf4AO3Q/s1600/PICT0137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhx9r1GFHKldL4SLUyXTtJwfOSt78vLwpq-U-ybCE2CRAv9Gl0tfzD8qHB2EwMsiql-MwAM8enn58g9ydWjkofymO4f6_FjFqyNTxtIR42nHHpExBMWHjzL1iWA0BXwUBYKgFJfDf4AO3Q/s320/PICT0137.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Owl-eyed Moth</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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After lunch, we found one of the chefs dropping food scraps to a Caiman right underneath the dining room, it was a shame we couldn't photograph it.<br />
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Later in the afternoon as we were heading back to go out on another 'expedition'when Lynn found several Black-Mantled Marmosets, another species of monkey-like mammals. Once again they were very close to the lodge and didn't seem very worried by us watching them.<br />
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A brief note about canoes. We used three different types, the first on the long river journey took about 20 passengers and had huge outboard engines on the back. The second was a fibre-glass hulled, hand-paddled, canoe where passengers sat in rows of two and took 6 to 8 passengers. The third was a small narrow, wooden, hand-paddled boat which only took 4 passengers, one row of two and 2 rows of single seats. In all of them, you are very close to water. Seats are very low and getting in and out is only really possible with some help!<br />
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We set out in the afternoon on the smallest canoe through one of the creeks. The Night Heron was still hiding in the tree at the entrance and soon afterwards we found a large Lizard on a branch over our heads. We slowly paddled along the creek and eventually arrived at a landing stage deep in the jungle. We scrambled up some rough steps on a muddy bank and shortly afterwards came to a huge wooden tower built around a massive Kapok tree.<br />
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Although not quite a tall as the aerial walkway we had previously visited, the tower took us up into the canopy of the forest. From here, we could see for miles, in fact we could just make our the Rio Napo in the far distance.<br />
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Bird life was prolific in the canopy and at various times we saw, Purple-Throated Fruit Crow, Russet-Backed Oropendolas, Spangled Cotingas, Black-Capped Eronymus, Ruffous-Bellied Euphonia, Cobalt-Winged Parakeets, and both types of Toucans. In the distance we could also see a Red Howler Monkey sleeping in the top of a tree. I'm sure that I've missed several birds that we saw. The Fruit Crows and Oropendolas were very obliging and posed for photographs!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEGA-EwKTSq-p8zClSrDz6TAjthSgwYq_k6PwyIcTqoWLxJ-c5UOOWnTxTbK2TtprRpZW7tMEY7J8Wyh38FkVVSaiOdK5Avr0B1DsQDXzTYU7zhTdaTpKp96nKviuD_ufi1w0ANxQeeo/s1600/PICT0173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqEGA-EwKTSq-p8zClSrDz6TAjthSgwYq_k6PwyIcTqoWLxJ-c5UOOWnTxTbK2TtprRpZW7tMEY7J8Wyh38FkVVSaiOdK5Avr0B1DsQDXzTYU7zhTdaTpKp96nKviuD_ufi1w0ANxQeeo/s320/PICT0173.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Russett-backed Oropendola</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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As we were about to leave, we realised that in the tree we were perched in was another Three-Toed Sloth - what a great end to our visit.<br />
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By now, the light was begining to fade, we set off down the tower and back to the canoe for an evening paddle through the jungle and back to the lodge.<br />
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Sacha Lodge is a very special place and it would be easy to spend longer here, both of us could have spent hours on the tops of the towers watching the wildlife!Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-26866605410788615562011-11-25T14:54:00.001-08:002011-11-25T15:20:21.231-08:00Sacha Lodge 19 Nov 201119 Nov 2011<br /><br />
Sure enough, at 5.00 there was a tap on the door and we rushed around to get ready to go out into the jungle on foot. Although there are few mosquitoes around the lodge, there were several other things to bite us, so we had been issued with wellington boots in addition to long-sleeved shirts we had bought with us. Suitably dressed and covered in 'deet' insect repellent, we headed down to breakfast, fresh fruit, scrambled eggs and bacon and excellent Ecuadorian coffee.<br />
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Outside our room we found an Agouti in the vegetation outside our room<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4iKYmwCY_aYaM3bQUdbeTsOCzvfCp_Ukxn8xTqYC5lCtlbPdOHpFl-f-8pBp9tdl3J5ieuyHhBHvyTNymZGDdpFPTT2LPz_2XJsoBdT3Wkz7IpNtvg7BJa9thzcmjGtxV2TNk3lY_zXo/s1600/PICT0036.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4iKYmwCY_aYaM3bQUdbeTsOCzvfCp_Ukxn8xTqYC5lCtlbPdOHpFl-f-8pBp9tdl3J5ieuyHhBHvyTNymZGDdpFPTT2LPz_2XJsoBdT3Wkz7IpNtvg7BJa9thzcmjGtxV2TNk3lY_zXo/s320/PICT0036.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Agouti</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"> </td></tr>
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<br />Our trek was going to take us out to a forest canopy walkway suspended high above the forest floor. It was just daylight as the six of us left and we traipsed quietly through the jungle. There was lot exotic foliage along the little track and many palms with aerial roots and giant Kapok trees with massive buttress roots. We discovered that all the trees, regardless of height only have roots going down about 1.2 metres because the soil is so poor. To make up for this, some of the Kapoks have roots that spread 150 metres outwards.<br /><br />Eventually, we reached the tower we had to climb. From the bottom, the top of the tower was lost in the early morning mist. The tower itself had been carried into place piece by piece with no heavy machinery, or wheeled transport used. The walkway consists of three steel towers, each about 50 metres high and looking like an electricity pylon with walkways suspected on steel hawsers between each tower. The walkways, 240 metres long and 43 metres about the jungle floor takes you into the forest canopy where most of the wildlife lives.<br /><br />Needless to say, climbing up stairs in the tower to 43 metres was a bit of a slog, but we all made it. From the top, we could just see the jungle floor and looking along the walkway we could just make out the central tower. We set off towards the middle tower with just two cables holding the wooden slatted walkway and two steel cables as handrails - not for the fainthearted!<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuFwapzxKNkxZIDsc2KrZcFCt8GCexFVDi6pAUCC6YTezvyUzxOG0p0EEKD_sK_Sg2wIUFgCe618k1sOZXTWX-sFCnPN1lKdlYqB9gsBHac6wHYyzXajW8UsET9A7HCc15pMWalgvOOk/s1600/PICT0042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPuFwapzxKNkxZIDsc2KrZcFCt8GCexFVDi6pAUCC6YTezvyUzxOG0p0EEKD_sK_Sg2wIUFgCe618k1sOZXTWX-sFCnPN1lKdlYqB9gsBHac6wHYyzXajW8UsET9A7HCc15pMWalgvOOk/s320/PICT0042.JPG" width="212" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aerial Walkway in the mist</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br />As the sky got lighter and mist started to clear, the birds started to appear. First were Palm Tanagers sharing the tower with us followed by a Double-toothed Kite, White-throated Tucans, Channel-billed Tucans, White Hawks, Ivory-billed Aracari and spectacularly blue Contingas. The Kite sat in a nearby tree for ages allowing me get very close and get a few pictures! In the distance, I caught sight of a King Vulture sunning itself in a tree, quite a rare sight apparently.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjap0VlJtLpqtsCc7fAwhQ3u8cJpayCjhO3w90ElyZ-Em1skSigXFBYL37H8MH1HGVLlsrZEULYQo4GQC2XWUqJ6E7pJo8pPyuak-cM6-d58GhSsZ1ZlxfDvNC_GXwOg_bIj4LiB4Ykczo/s1600/PICT0071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjap0VlJtLpqtsCc7fAwhQ3u8cJpayCjhO3w90ElyZ-Em1skSigXFBYL37H8MH1HGVLlsrZEULYQo4GQC2XWUqJ6E7pJo8pPyuak-cM6-d58GhSsZ1ZlxfDvNC_GXwOg_bIj4LiB4Ykczo/s320/PICT0071.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Double-Toothed Kite</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br />Finally, after a couple of hours up in the jungle canopy we headed back down to the ground and started our walk back to the lodge. En route, we found a pair of large Crested Owls roosting in a tree and several Owl or Night Monkeys huddling in a hole in a tree.<br /><br />Once back at the lodge after a midmorning snack we decided to freshen up with a swim in lake Pilchicocha - the same one we had seen the Caimans in the night before! The lake is also home to Piranha and Electric Eels. Fortunately, Caimans only hunt at night and the Piranhas and Eels are largely more concerned with smaller prey than humans. The lake was deliciously cool and very refreshing.<br /><br />Later, after lunch, most of us went for a second jungle hike to explore the vegetation and insects. We trekked out to a swampy lake stopping to look at plants and trees en route. Some of the Kapoks were enormous, over 50 metres high. On one we found several bats roosting. Once we got to the lake, we got into a canoe and paddled throught the swamp. We saw and heard several woodpeckers during this part of the trek.<br /><br />As the light started to fade, we got back out the canoe so we could walk back to the lodge in the dark. As it got darker, the noise of the cicadas and frogs got louder. By the light of our torches, we saw several enormous cicadas and a few tiny tree frogs. As we passed the largest Kapok tree, Julio found a Wood-Creeper roosting in a corner of the buttress roots. Just before we got back to the lodge we found another large Tarantula hiding in a hole in a tree.<br />
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<br />Back at the lodge, the staff had set up a BBQ on the sun-deck that looked out across the lake. After a very tasty meal and a couple of beers we headed back to bed knowing that we had a lie-in the following day until 6.00.Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-75610984840264868902011-11-24T15:37:00.001-08:002011-11-24T16:00:02.053-08:00Sacha Lodge18 Nov 2011 (continued)<br />
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Over a three course lunch in the open-air dining room, Julio, our guide, explained our plans for the next three days. Our first chance to explore would be around 3 in the afternoon in a small canoe. He then walked us around the jungle camp, showing us the butterfly-house and the rest of the facilities. Finally, we were taken to our room out in the jungle. Most of the rooms are 2 roomed, thatched-roofed bungalows, and ours, number 21, was the last in a row of bungalows. The lodge can has 26 rooms with facilities for 52 guests, so it was pretty quiet.<br /><br />The en-suite room had no windows, just insect screens. It also had a balcony, complete with a hammock, which looked out into the jungle. The room also had one unusual feature, a humidity box. This box was for cameras and electrical items to prevent them getting damp in the very high humidity.<br /><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5pXkOhqcPNkmeUFfEyypO0ZYJDMXdufct_M1l5OxGV5_kRnm-UME87K50ojIcLDn7a_XX_76FeB4iWRKokITrmxDnN7QzMdkwIAcM-1YvAWg2dAN83b5d-nw4ZtJpRbkLwAh6YaJ6x4g/s1600/PICT0034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5pXkOhqcPNkmeUFfEyypO0ZYJDMXdufct_M1l5OxGV5_kRnm-UME87K50ojIcLDn7a_XX_76FeB4iWRKokITrmxDnN7QzMdkwIAcM-1YvAWg2dAN83b5d-nw4ZtJpRbkLwAh6YaJ6x4g/s320/PICT0034.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smooth-billed Anis</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red-Capped Cardinal</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br />Before our boat trip, we walked out to the sun-deck where lots of noisy Yellow-Rumped Caciques were nesting in a palm-tree. In the nearby trees we also saw Tropical King Birds, Greater Anis, Smooth-Billed Anis and Red Capped Cardinals. Also to be seen and heard were Oropendolas that build very long hanging nests to avoid predation by monkeys. They had a very loud, unusual and obvious call that sounded like a drop of water falling into a pond. We saw many of these birds during our stay.<br /><br /><br />We then got into our canoe with John and Rita, a couple from Hinckley, that formed our small group along with Julio our Ecuadorian guide and Jaime, our indiginous native assistant guide.<br /><br />We were slowly paddled back across the Pilchicocha lake toward what looked like inpenetrable jungle only to find a very small waterway hidden between the trees. These waterways, often only a couple of feet wide and surrounded by jungle, were to become quite familiar to us during our visit. Right at the entrance to the waterway, we came across a night-heron camouflaging itself in a semi-collapsed tree, we managed not to disturb it.<br /><br />Only a few yards further into the jungle, Jaime (who only spoke Spanish and Quechua or Kichwa) spotted something in a tree just above us. After quietly manoeuvring the canoe we were treated to the sight of a three-toed sloth dozing in a tree just a few yards away. It was very well hidden, and true to its name, it slowly turned its head to look at us before turning back to more important things, sleep. Both Julio and Jaime were suprised to see the sloth so close to the lodge, what a start to our visit.<br /><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Three-toed Sloth</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<br />After heading back to the lodge, we relaxed in our room until dinner time. We headed down to the dining room and the bar located about where we quenched our thirst with a pre-dinner beer. John and Rita joined us. Diner was at 1930 and we discovered that we had soup, salad, a main-course and sweet to eat, this set the scene for all our meals at the lodge. The food was delicious and during the meal I discovered that John used to be a language teacher at RAF North Luffenham - what an amazing coincidence. We had many mutual friends and colleagues!<br /><br />After dinner, we headed out by canoe again for a jungle exploration by night. One of the first things we saw, by the light of a torch, were Greater Bulldog Fish-Eating Bats, they swooped low over the water of the lake grabbing the fish from just under the surface of the water, an amazing sight. In another very narrow jungle waterway, we came across a large Tarantula Spider only a foot or two from the boat. We couldn't go all the way along the creek, because a Caiman was nesting there and had previously been quite aggresive, chasing the canoe and leaping out of the water onto a canoe. Needless to say, Jaime was not keen to repeat the experience!<br /><br />Back on the lake, we saw several pairs of Caiman eyes gleaming in the distance, but never got close to them. Back at the lodge, after a very long day, Julio told us that we would be woken at 5.00, have breakfast at 5.30 and leave on our next excursion by 6.00 the next morning - the joys of wildlife watching!Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4749032423294458188.post-76948674002798436702011-11-21T15:37:00.001-08:002011-11-21T15:55:49.616-08:00Quito to the Jungle18 November 2011<br /><br />Quito to Sacha Lodge<br />Just to get us used to early starts planned in the jungle, we were up by 0600 and in a crowded breakfast room not long afterwards. We abandonded one of our bags in the hotel baggage room, and at 0725 met our travel rep in the lobby.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andean Snow-covered Volcanos</td></tr>
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It was a pretty quick drive to the airport although the traffic in the airport area was chaotic. Inside domestic departures wasn't much different. We were lucky that a rep from Sacha Lodge was on hand and she managed to check in our bags and get our boarding passes.<br /><br />Security was interesting, it seems that taking full bottles of water through is quite OK in Quito! Our flight to Francisco de Orellan (otherwise known as Coca) was delayed so we sat and watched several flights heading out to the Galapagos. We also watched several tourists getting rather nervous as the departures information board was next to useless and there was no information about our flight. We were reassured when three or four locals sat opposite us holding boarding cards for our flight.<br /><br />Suddenly, our flight was called and we got an Embraer jet for the 30 minute flight down to Coca. I say down, as Quito is at 2800 metres and Coca is not much higher than sea-level. Once again we flew around several snow-covered volcanoes before heading across the rain-forest. On the ground, it was very warm and humid, something we have to get used to for a few days. The airport is extremely basic, the baggage carousel is a concrete shelf in the open-air arrivals 'lounge'.<br /><br />Once again we were met by a rep from Sacha Lodge and put on an aging Chinese coach along with a puppy and a few locals for our drive into town. Coca is an oil town and is less than 50 years old. It is rather scruffy, but developing fast. We first went to a 'house' where we found clean loos, lots of iced bottled water and some fruit. We had a short briefing and collected life-jackets and after a short break headed down to the Rio Napa and our motorised canoe.<br /><br />The Rio Napo starts in the high Andes and drains into the Amazon, passing through Ecuador, Peru and Brazil before meeting the Atlantic Ocean. Whilst the Rio Napo is classed as 'white-water', it is in fact a dirty brown colour from all the sediment it carries.<br /><br />The long narrow canoe had two huge outboard engines on the back and had a sun shade over the length of the boat. Passengers sat in rows of two, the width of the boat inches from the waterline. With a muted roar, we were off on a 50 mile journey downriver which was due to take 2 hours. Let me tell you that 25mph, inches from the water in a narrow canoe, is a heck of a ride. Although the Rio Napo is probably half a mile wide in places, it is fairly shallow. The ride is all the more exciting as there are numberous sandbars and lots of large floating timber in the river. Rarely did our boatman ease off the throttle, weaving his way between logs and sandbars. We did hit a few sandbars, but apart from a jolt, we powered on through.<br /><br />After two hours we pulled into a dock in the jungle, where there was a chance of a 'comfort break' before we headed down a board-walk through the jungle. This 20 minute hike got us up close the jungle very quickly with lots of strange sights and sounds. Some of the vegitation was very colourful and the trains of leaf-cutter ants all bearing enormous pieces of leaf were rather spectacular.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sacha Lodge Dock on Rio Napo</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-uceJUS0sPED6YsOXhY-1CY0rj-uu5_Hv7pFr9G_2hi2hffvEA3VxWI5P2LmgUy2MvoulJulxN2WzVqrGsJppevzKUQ0HC6NQAVh5xY67SWmNowjJuT2r_qEzrBdMpux6gLo07VdLLfI/s1600/PICT0016.JPG" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-uceJUS0sPED6YsOXhY-1CY0rj-uu5_Hv7pFr9G_2hi2hffvEA3VxWI5P2LmgUy2MvoulJulxN2WzVqrGsJppevzKUQ0HC6NQAVh5xY67SWmNowjJuT2r_qEzrBdMpux6gLo07VdLLfI/s320/PICT0016.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sacha Lodge on Lago Pilchicocha</td></tr>
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<br />At the end of the walk, we found ourselves on another dock on a large 'black-water' lake. Black-water describes the colour of the water very well. Black-water is rain water and gets is colour from all the millions of leaves that have fallen into it.<br /><br />Cue another canoe, this time hand-paddled. A short journey across the lake took us to Sacha Lodge and a welcome drink. After being allocated a room, we sat down to lunch with Julio, our guide for the next few days. Gallivantor_1http://www.blogger.com/profile/11444838923069711814noreply@blogger.com0