Wine, more wine and Art Decor

Saturday 14 March warmer and partly clouldy 21C - no mileage at all

Hawkes Bay can probably claim to be the most important wine growing region of NZ, with new wineries opening each year. The choice of wine producers to visit is huge and in the space of a couple of days it would be impossible to visit them all, but more of that later

The superb Art Decor architecture of Napier is well known and is visible almost everywhere you look as you wander around the town, Many buildings have changed their business since they were built in the 1930s but the often the original business name is still emblazoned on the front of ornate facades. Some buildings, notably the Banks, the Newspaper office, Insurance offices and the Government buildings are mainly as they were 80 years ago, but even when other businesses have established themselves at ground floor level, the upper floors are still there in all their glory.

As well wandering around town staring upwards, we also replenished our dwindling reading materials, being careful to avoid the many tour groups being led around the town.

When booking the wine tour yesterday, they had suggested that we should have a substantial lunch before our trip, otherwise we might find ourselves falling asleep! Having eaten a couple of sandwiches and crisps we hoped we were well prepared as we waited for 'Vince's Wine Tours' to show up at the motel. Right on time, Robert turned up in a mini-bus with three other people on board, another couple at our motel also joined the tour. We were greeted by "Bon jour! Je m'appel Robert"! Robert is Canadian, who worked for years in UK, moved to NZ, and a bit of a character; his chosen headwear consisted of a eye-shade cap topped with its own spiky hair. Having introduced everyone to each other, the seven of us set off for our first vineyard.

Askerne is a small producer in the Hastings area and our cellar-door master of ceremonies was Jerome an english guy from Esher. In the tasting room was a bar with glasses for the tasters and no less that 13 wines to try ranging from a Sauvignon Blanc, through a Merlot/Malbec/Franc/Cabernet Sauvignon, to three desert, or sticky in the local parliance, wines. The wines were all good, but the Gewurtztraminer, the Bordeaux-style Red and the rather unusual Dessert Cabernet were excellent. The dessert cabernet was tasted, then after eating a piece of dark plain chocolate, tasted again. This changed the tasted to something even more complex, very much cherry flavoured! After trying manfully to spit rather than swallow 13 different wines, it was time to move. This vineyard is well worth the visit and Jerome is very knowledgable and entertaining!

We drove on from here through Havelock North and out toi the Salvare Estate, this is a new boutique producer, number 66 Robert informed us! The tasting room was set in amongst the vines with picnic tables set up out the back. Here we tried another 7 wines ranging from Viognier, through oaked and unoaked Chardonnay to a 2008 Merlot Rose, a 2007 Merlot, a 2007 Syrah to a 2006 Syrah. Most of these had one medals, but the 06 Syrah was probably the best. After tasting these wines, Robert produced a snack lunch of bread, cheeses, olive oil and meats all sources locally. Delicious!

Next stop was Hatton Estates, firmly on the Gimblett Gravels, so well drained and warm rooted vines are produced. None of the Hatton Estates wines are sold at retail, but the list of restaurants stocking these wines is impressive. The likes of Gordan Ramsays and Petrus in London are selling these wines and I can see why. Here we tried a further 8 wines, The EC2 Chardonnay 2007 was quite crisp, but the Turtle Bay Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, both of 07 were better. The the '07 Rose didn't do if for me, but the '06 Miro Merlot was very fruity. An interesting '03 Carson's Cabernet was next, but although it was on special offer, it wasn't as good as the' 05 Reserve (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc), very Bordeaux like effort. Finally, the Waiau Estates Syrah, a very oaky complex wine, but top marks still went to the '05 Reserve. Some wines we didn't taste, such as 'The Doctor' sounded fantastic, and also Tahi One (Gordon Ramsay) at under $NZ50 per bottle were a snip.

Our final stop was at Moana Park, the only winery in the Southern Hemisphere specialising in vegan wines. They may well be the only winery on planet only producing vegan wines. The owner, Dan Barker, met us and did the tasting with us, a man with a very dry sense of humour whose education in political correctness was delightfully missing! Dan grows 7 varieties of grape and hand crafts, and hand picks, all his wines. We tried another 8 wines here including the pick of the quaffing wines a '08 Viognier. After these, we tried a 10 year Tawny, they can't by law call it Port, and an incredible '07 Ice Wine. Finally, we cracked and bought a bottle of the Ice Wine to sip in a few years time to remember Hawkes Bay.

Back at Pebble Beach, largely sober due to the considerable spitting, we tidied ourselves up and decided to continue the Gastro splurge by eating an Indonesian Reistaffel or banquet at a small restaurant, a mere staggering distance from the Pebble Beach. Reistaffel is a Dutch name for the meal and indeed the restaurant was owned by a Dutch guy. To wash down this delighful meal, we chose a bottle of Moana Park '08 Viognier.

Back at the Motel, after all the food and wine of the day, the spa bath seemed a good idea. Sleep came very quickly afterwards!