Parks, the Peak and Aberdeen

Sunday 05 Apr Sunny and hot 25C

Happy Valley Racecourse which we overlook from our room is a busy place. Although there isn't any racing going on, they only race here on a Wednesday, the sports fields in the middle of the racecourse are constantly occupied. There are several soccer pitches, at least two hockey pitches, a rugby field and a crown bowling rink. The whole area is floodlit and seems to have games going on from first thing in the morning until at least 11 at night. The whole area is surrounded by high-rise buildings, mostly residential, it is like a little oasis in the middle of the city.

Up quite early and ate breakfast in the hotel. Following that, we caught a tram outside the hotel and trundled down to the Admiralty stop. Sitting on the top deck of a tram is the best way to see Hennessy road, the main thoroughfare that the trams travel along. Sometimes the trams are nose to tail all along the road.

Almost every road going south from Hennessy is uphill and the road up to Hong Kong park is no exception. With the humidity today, it is warm work climbing up the path into the park itself. It is another oasis in the city and boasts fountains, lakes and waterfalls. It is also full of birds, butterflies and dragonflies. The lakes are full of Koi carp and terrapins. Up another hill and we reach the Aviaries. The first few contain exotic birds in their own cages, but beyond them is a huge walk-in aviary full of exotic species free to fly anywhere in the netted area. We saw some amazing birds ranging from bulbuls, to parakeets. Well worth visiting.

Outside the park we stop briefly at one of the intermediate stations on the Peak Tramway, but don't stay long when we realise that the trams won't stop to pick us up if they are already full, and they are certainly full. Walking back down to the bottom station we find a long queue snaking around the block waiting to buy tickets for the tram. We almost leave until we see a sign near the head of the queue telling us that holders of Octopus cards can leap-frog the queue! We still had to wait about 15 minutes, but not as long as some. The tram is a pretty amazing feat of engineering and grinds its way up to the top in about 5 minutes. The views getting better and better the higher you go.

At the top, there has been a lot of construction since I was last here. There are so many commercial ventures now at the top tram station it is a bit of a scrummage. We left the building without eating or buying anything and walked along to the Lion overlook. The views here are stunning even on a slightly hazy day like today. We stayed for some time staring over Hong Kong and Kowloon and watching the many Kites flying around the skyscrappers.

Failing to find a direct bus down to Aberdeen on the southern side of Hong Kong island, we opt for a small bus that plunges down the near vertical roads back to the centre of town. It is almost a white knuckle ride as the road has so many hairpin bends, is consistantly steep all the way down and the driver hurtles along at breakneck speed.

We get lost when we leave the bus at Central Pier and have to ask to find the stop for the number 7 bus to Aberdeen. Eventually, we find the right place and after a short wait board the bus that goes around the west of Hong Kong island and down to the south. In Aberdeen, the harbour is incredibly busy with fishing boats, ferries and sampans. The sampan owners have touts, all ladies, on the shore and it is quite difficult to avoid being pestered to go and take a sight-seeing tour on a sampan. For a price, and it isn't much, they will take you out to view the floating townships moored up behing the Typhoon barrier. Also moored in the harbour are the huge mega-large floating restaurants which Aberdeen is famous for. We manage to avoid all the blandishments of the lady sampan drivers and stroll along the water front. Apparently, whilst taking pictures near the fish market, a large rat ran almost over my feet to disappear into the market - lovely!

We find a different bus to take us directly back to Happy Valley that goes directly through the Aberdeen tunnel that cuts under the mountain. Later we stroll back town into town and find another 'no-frills' local restaurant and eat and drink well for about £40.