The Tutukawa Coast

Monday 30 March Warm and sunny 22C Drove 161km

After a fairly slow start, left Paihia and headed south to Opua where we caught the ferry across to Okiato. The ferry is only takes 5 minutes to cross, but saves 60-70km for winding roads for local residents. We were lucky and the ferry left almost as soon as we drove on board. On the other side, we followed the road towards Russell, but just outside town headed off down the coast on the Russell road, named because before the ferry, it was the only way to get to Russell.

There was virtually no traffic on this road and it was a pleasure to wander along at 60kph and look at the scenery. The road follows the coast mainly and every now and again plunges down to sea level and a pretty beach before climbing back through native forest back over headlands. We stopped several times to take photos and eventually, near Helena Bay, stopped for coffee. The Gallery and Cafe is perched high above Helena Bay and has a slightly German theme to it in that they serve Kulmbacher beer and apfelstrudel! The food here looks fantastic but we can only report on the quality of the Ginger Slices with was most delicious, almost like ginger fudge on shortbread. The view, however, is the one of the most striking things about the place, it is enough to briefly push the taste of the cakes to the back of your mind.

Next to, and part of, the cafe is a gallery. The art work here was wonderful and it would have been very easy to spend several thousand dollars on some seriously tasteful pieces of art. Often when visiting a gallery, there might be one or two things that catch your eye, this gallery had lots that might have had your hand reaching for your wallet. Regretably, we didn't buy, but left thinking that much of the work would look at its best in a beautiful house in NZ rather that in Europe.

Not long after leaving the gallery, we briefly rejoined the SH1 at Whakapara. The road was busy with big trucks so we were glad to turn off again at Hikurangi onto the Marua road. This road headed through mainly pastureland toward the coast. At a T junction, we headed back onto the gravel at the Whananaki South road. This road, which was very busy going in the opposite direction, took us down to an estuary surrounded by mangroves and crossed by the longest footbridge in the Southern Hemisphere, if the tourist books are to be believed. The bridge, just wide enough for one person is nearly 500 metres from end to end. After a quick double crossing, we ate lunch underneath a shady tree.














Back up the gravel road, we joined the Matapouri road out to the Tutukaka coast. In Tutukaka, a stop was made to check arrangements for diving tomorrow. Next, we toured the area between Tutukaka and Ngungara (the first 'g' is apparently silent) looking for accommodation. For future reference, the Sands Motel at Whangaumu Bay looks good and is directly on a pretty sandy beach. The cabins at the Tutukaka campsite also looked OK. We settled for a studio room at the Tutukaka Coast Motor Lodge in Ngungara. The Motor Lodge has great studios for less than NZ$ 100 and we were the only guests.

Only a couple of hundred metres down the road is a small row of shops. A Hairdressers, a Superette (new NZ word for a mini supermarket), a small licenced cafe and the inevitable Fish and Chips shop. After a stroll along the waterfront we returned later the the cafe, 'Salt Air', where we had an excellent and cheap meal. The seared scallops were fantastic and I believe the lamb was pretty good too. The place might not look very special, but the food and service was very good.